Coopers Hydrometer - How To Read
Coopers Hydrometer - How To Read
How do i rad the coopers hydrometer correctly?
Is a small section that has a 'beer' range - am i looking to get it close to the green section at 10 ?
Is a small section that has a 'beer' range - am i looking to get it close to the green section at 10 ?
Chazman,
Firstly make sure you spin the hydrometer so that no bubbles are clinging to it, they change your reading.
I don't have a coopers hydrometer but I reckon the 10 would correspond to a gravity of 1010. The beer will form a meniscus around the hydrometer which just means that it will cling to a bit higher to it than the level of the surrounding liquid. Normally you read at the bottom of the meniscus, get down so that your eye is level with the liquid level for the most accurate reading.
Commonly kits with dex will have a final gravity (FG) below 1010 but what you're really aiming for is the same reading a day or more apart. This indicates that the brew has finished primary fermentation. If you use more malt extracts, maltodextrin (body builder/booster) or certain types of yeast the FG will be higher than 1010. If you bottle as soon as it gets to the green range but before it has finished fermenting you run the risk of your bottles exploding.
Hope this helps
Firstly make sure you spin the hydrometer so that no bubbles are clinging to it, they change your reading.
I don't have a coopers hydrometer but I reckon the 10 would correspond to a gravity of 1010. The beer will form a meniscus around the hydrometer which just means that it will cling to a bit higher to it than the level of the surrounding liquid. Normally you read at the bottom of the meniscus, get down so that your eye is level with the liquid level for the most accurate reading.
Commonly kits with dex will have a final gravity (FG) below 1010 but what you're really aiming for is the same reading a day or more apart. This indicates that the brew has finished primary fermentation. If you use more malt extracts, maltodextrin (body builder/booster) or certain types of yeast the FG will be higher than 1010. If you bottle as soon as it gets to the green range but before it has finished fermenting you run the risk of your bottles exploding.
Hope this helps
ChazMan,
If you feel the need to check your hydometer, simply fill a beaker with cold water (from your tap will do), twist your hydrometer into the water and check that you have a zero reading. Temperature will affect the reading slightly.
Furthermore, if you over fill the beaker with water it should spill out once the hydrometer has been immersed. Once the hydrometer has stopped spinning remove it from the beaker you will be left with a water level in the beaker. Mark this level with a permanent marking pen. From this point on, when checking gravity readings from your wort fill the beaker to positioned marked on the beaker and you find it much easier to read the hydrometer which will be at the top of the beaker. Another benefit is less waste and mess to clean.......
Cheers
Bags
If you feel the need to check your hydometer, simply fill a beaker with cold water (from your tap will do), twist your hydrometer into the water and check that you have a zero reading. Temperature will affect the reading slightly.
Furthermore, if you over fill the beaker with water it should spill out once the hydrometer has been immersed. Once the hydrometer has stopped spinning remove it from the beaker you will be left with a water level in the beaker. Mark this level with a permanent marking pen. From this point on, when checking gravity readings from your wort fill the beaker to positioned marked on the beaker and you find it much easier to read the hydrometer which will be at the top of the beaker. Another benefit is less waste and mess to clean.......
Cheers
Bags
if the gravity is higher, it won't come to the top of the beaker.. if it's lower (e.g dry enzyme, some ciders etc), then it'll still overflow.Bags wrote:From this point on, when checking gravity readings from your wort fill the beaker to positioned marked on the beaker and you find it much easier to read the hydrometer which will be at the top of the beaker. Another benefit is less waste and mess to clean.......
Cheers
Bags

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2400? Geez thats like the 80's! Were you even born KEG? 
I started back in the days of 9600 voice modems mostly posting to BBS and IRC on 3.1 about '92 or '93 I guess
This was of course before "Jerry's Guide to the World Wide Web" which opened my mind to incredible things on Opera's excellent browser!
Never looked back after that...
Still in those 15 years or so on the web I have never seen s/, learn something new every day.
Since we are so off topic anyway, who supports the Information-revolution.org movement? Ask Jeeves always was one of my favorite places to find out cool stuff because of the intuitive nature of the engine.

I started back in the days of 9600 voice modems mostly posting to BBS and IRC on 3.1 about '92 or '93 I guess

This was of course before "Jerry's Guide to the World Wide Web" which opened my mind to incredible things on Opera's excellent browser!
Never looked back after that...
Still in those 15 years or so on the web I have never seen s/, learn something new every day.
Since we are so off topic anyway, who supports the Information-revolution.org movement? Ask Jeeves always was one of my favorite places to find out cool stuff because of the intuitive nature of the engine.
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vim???rwh wrote:Yeah, sorry about that... guess it comes from being a geek (possibly even old skool geek... anyone remember 2400 baud modems?) and using vim for all my day-to-day text-editing needs.
LUXURY! Some of us only had vi to work with.
Oh, and you aren't truly old school unless you've used an acoustic coupler.
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- Trough Lolly
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