Hanging Rock Hobgoblin

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Hanging Rock Hobgoblin

Postby Guest » Monday Dec 05, 2005 8:53 am

I visited England in 2000 and became fond of an ale called Hobgoblin.
This recipe won the inaugural Lancefield Show's Homebrew Competition, judged by Paul Holgate of Holgate Breweryin Woodend.

1xHomebrew Draught
1kg light malt
1/2cup roasted barley
25gm Cascade hops (boiling, about 30 minutes)
12gm Willamette hops (flavour, about 5 minutes)
1xCoopers Sparkling Ale bottle yeast

Tasting notes....beaudiful :D
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Postby Mackers » Monday Dec 05, 2005 9:02 am

Oops, forgot to log in. That's my post above.
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Postby MHD » Monday Dec 05, 2005 9:12 am

So you make a starter out of the coopers yeast?
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Postby Mackers » Monday Dec 05, 2005 12:16 pm

Yep, have a few Coopers and drain them into the one stubbie. I add a spoonful of malt to a cup or so of water, boil it, cool it down, then add it to the stubbie and give it a good shake. Usually fires up by morning. I've used safale yeast to make just as good a beer.
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Postby Daron » Monday Dec 05, 2005 1:37 pm

Paul Rigby at G&G, who does a monthly brew, said culturing yeast from bottles was a waste s it's been depleted. I've never done it but reckon this fella knows his beer.

Still, not stoppng me.
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Postby Mackers » Monday Dec 05, 2005 3:49 pm

I haven't heard that before, Daron, but I have heard that the yeast Coopers use for the secondary fermentation is different from the one used for the primary fermentation. I've reused Coopers bottle yeast a lot over the years and never had a problem. I've also taken a few vegemite jar-fulls of the sediment and used that and also not had a problem. I like the Safale yeast, but I also like Coopers and the ritual of culturing the yeast.
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Re: Hanging Rock Hobgoblin

Postby gottleofgeer » Friday May 05, 2006 10:04 am

Anonymous wrote:I visited England in 2000 and became fond of an ale called Hobgoblin.
This recipe won the inaugural Lancefield Show's Homebrew Competition, judged by Paul Holgate of Holgate Breweryin Woodend.

1xHomebrew Draught
1kg light malt
1/2cup roasted barley
25gm Cascade hops (boiling, about 30 minutes)
12gm Willamette hops (flavour, about 5 minutes)
1xCoopers Sparkling Ale bottle yeast

Tasting notes....beaudiful :D


I like hobgoblin so much that I went and bought all the ingredients, however I now realise that i really don't know what to do with the barley, cascade hops and willamette hops.

I gather I put the draught and malt in as per usual, and then presumably boil the hops for 30 and 5 minutes respectively. By boiling does this mean in boiling water or on the boil on the stove?

Guidance greatly appreciated so I can this baby brewing.

Thanks

Byron
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Postby da_damage_done » Friday May 05, 2006 2:41 pm

Byron

Steep the roasted barley for about 30mins in 70*C water - about 1.5L to 2L. (you can get about 70*C with 2 parts boiling water + 1 part tap water) - do not let the water get any warmer than this.

Strain out the grains.
Now bring the remaining water to the boil.
Throw in your malt.
Throw in Cascade hops @ 30mins to go
Throw in Willamette @ 5mins to go

Don't let the mixture boil over - it'll be a bugger to clean up.

Now when time is up turn off the stove and add your kit into the mix.

Then tip all of this into the fermenter - it is up to you whether you strain the hops out - I'd be inclined to leave them in there - they'll drop to the bottom and come out when you first rack.

If your boil volume gets too big you'll be best off pre chilling some water to get the temp down for pitching the yeast.

Cheers
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Postby drtom » Friday May 05, 2006 2:52 pm

I forget where I read it, but one suggestion for chilling is to boil water, pour into icecream containers and freeze. You can then use these (e.g. 2L) blocks to chill your wort pretty quickly.

Tom.
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Postby Mackers » Friday May 05, 2006 3:57 pm

Gottleofgeer,

there's no doubt that da_damage_done's is the best way to do it but mine was slightly different based on Charlie Papazian's method:

slowly brought the roasted barley to boil, stirring all the time, turned off the heat and strained out the grains.
Then added the malt and hops as per da_damage_done. To avoid a big boil on the stove, I add the kit straight to the fermenter, then the hot wort, stir like the proverbial while adding cold water. Tends to come out anywhere between 20C and 28C, depending how much water you used on the stove. I also strain the hops out.

This brew always leaves a nice lacing down the side of the glass.
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Postby gottleofgeer » Wednesday May 10, 2006 3:32 pm

Thanks guys,

I'm hoping to get it happening tomorrow. Full report when it's done.

Cheers

Byron
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Postby gottleofgeer » Sunday May 21, 2006 6:24 pm

Guys,

What sort of final gravity are you getting? The brews been on since Wednesday night and it's stopped at 1014 at 16 degrees (using SAFALE yeast). Not sure if it's done or not?

Thanks

Byron
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Postby Mackers » Monday May 22, 2006 8:06 am

'Fraid I don't tend to work off such things, gottleofgeer. I use Safale a fair bit and my experience is that it keeps on keeping on for a good week or so.
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Postby Oliver » Monday May 22, 2006 8:26 pm

What sort of final gravity are you getting? The brews been on since Wednesday night and it's stopped at 1014 at 16 degrees (using SAFALE yeast). Not sure if it's done or not?

Byron,

What was your original gravity?

Oliver
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Postby Paleman » Monday May 22, 2006 8:53 pm

For a big beer, i'd imagine a high OG.

So getting it down to 1.014 is nearly there. The Safale usually chugs along at 16 - 20 degrees. And will do as much as it can.

After 7 - 10 days, with those temperatures, your better off racking. To kick the Safale off again, and maybe bring it down a point or two.

After that, get two readings the same with your racked brew, and bottle, keg, CC or whatever turns you on. All in all its ready for secondary conditioning, or carbing up.
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Postby gottleofgeer » Tuesday May 23, 2006 12:26 pm

Oliver wrote:
What sort of final gravity are you getting? The brews been on since Wednesday night and it's stopped at 1014 at 16 degrees (using SAFALE yeast). Not sure if it's done or not?

Byron,

What was your original gravity?

Oliver


Mmm, I'm lazy and never check it. I guess I should.
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Postby gottleofgeer » Tuesday May 23, 2006 12:28 pm

Paleman wrote:For a big beer, i'd imagine a high OG.

So getting it down to 1.014 is nearly there. The Safale usually chugs along at 16 - 20 degrees. And will do as much as it can.

After 7 - 10 days, with those temperatures, your better off racking. To kick the Safale off again, and maybe bring it down a point or two.

After that, get two readings the same with your racked brew, and bottle, keg, CC or whatever turns you on. All in all its ready for secondary conditioning, or carbing up.


Thanks. I put the heater on it yesterday to bring it back up from 15 degrees to 18ish and gave it a stir and no action. I think it's either stopped or frozen (it's gotten colder over the last couple of days).

I'm going to rack it (once I work out how to do that) today.

I just had a taste it's not bad. Very english!

Thanks for the help.

Byron
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Postby Cortez The Killer » Sunday Dec 31, 2006 3:29 pm

I can vouch for this one being an excellent beer

http://www.hyperfox.info/beer01.htm#16
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