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I've thought about getting a filler for that reason, but have decided to pick up a 9L keg instead. Much more fun!

Im about to rack this beer (today), after its been in primary for a week. Should I sprinkle some dextrose on top just to let the yeast clear out the oxygen? If so how much? I didn't do this when I racked last time, and I was really worried about the oxidation that would have been occuring (especially when the tap clogged up when transferring, and it took just less than an hour to finish, before I could seal the lid.)

I normally boil a tablespoon of dex in a bit of water and pour that in.

Alright, just racked this. I also figured out my racking problem. Turns out the flowing slows down (alot!) half way through because the tube is full of oxygen, and the oxygen can't find a way to escape. I poked a few holes in the tube, and the beer started flowing like nothing I have seen before. Emptied the last 10 litres of the fermenter in less than a minute. A friend told me that the best way to do it is to put your thumb on the end of the tube, and fill it with beer first, so their is no oxygen left, then let it start flowing.

I dropped in my hop bag with 12g Chinook, then chucked a heaped teaspoon of dextrose in (boiled of course), and it is already bubbling

Next time, I'm just going to skip the hop bag, and just throw the hop pellets in. The hop bag was huge, and appears to be mostly useless.

Thanks for the help with this one guys,
Tim

The best way to get the gas out of the tube is to pinch it between thumb and forefinger where the bubble is (normally just after the tap). This changes the flow and somehow pushes the gas through. I wouldn't poke holes in my tube as I'd be worried that this would suck air in and oxidise the beer. The other thing to do is get the hose that fits on the inside of your tap like the little bottler does (I think it's OD 8mm) rather than the hose that fits on the outside of the tap (I think that's ID 10mm). The thinner hose has less tendency, and so generally flows better.

After i rack can i get some of the yeast (US 56) cake to use for the next batch? Or should i buy 2 packets. Im tempted to get a white labs liquid yeast California Ale Yeast WLP001
to use in this (LCPA) and upcoming brews. Or would the US 56 be better?

Cheers Damo

damian44 wrote:After i rack can i get some of the yeast (US 56) cake to use for the next batch? Or should i buy 2 packets. Im tempted to get a white labs liquid yeast California Ale Yeast WLP001
to use in this (LCPA) and upcoming brews. Or would the US 56 be better?

Cheers Damo

Yes, you can harvest the yeast (US56, also known as US05).
I've used the White Labs WLP001, and it is an excellent yeast for this style of ale. It is probably the same yeast strain, anyway.
I'd build the tube up to a 1½ litre starter, and split it into 6 of those 250 mil bottles (if you haven't got glass, you can use 250 mil coke bottles). Then build up one of your splits into another 2 litre starter and use that.
Link here on liquid yeasts:
http://www.homebrewandbeer.com/forum/vi ... quid+yeast

Kevnlis wrote:As a rule I try to match the amount of fermentables in the boil to the amount in the finished batch. As follows:

24L batch of beer with 3 kilos of malt, if I am doing an 8L boil then I will add 1 kilo of malt to the boil. This makes it easier to calculate IBUs and adapt recipes etc because the desntiy of your mini boil is the same as the final product. It also makes it easier to convert AG recipes to extract recipes because you do not need to change the hop schedule at all!

Well said Kevnlis, Hop Utilisation is not the same if you make the boil like mud / barley wine hehe,
additionally ; I hate darkened extracts~

Interesting are recent experiments done by the basicbrewing.com guys actually boiling hops with no malt,
and for quick beers boiling hops and ldme for only
15 mins total but using *2 as much hops.
Apparently hop utilization is about 1/2 @15mins as it is @60mins ?
One would guess the hop flavor bomb would suit lcpa lovers as well.
i.e. utilisation @60mins approximately 30%, @15mins ~15%
playing with hops
Hops stuff about 1/2 way in.
cheers

Nice find 501. Quite a few brewers use the old 20 min or less additions for all the bittering and flavour. Some beers are much better if done that way IMHO. But there are times where you want to bitter with a hop but not get alot of the flavour from it (Green Bullet and POR IMHO) and you should do the full 60 min boil or FWH as I like to do. This is another one of those things that depends on personal preference as well as the beer style and guide lines (if you are brewing to style or for competition that is).

Oh all right- there`s been such a hullabaloo over this LCPA clone that I will try it for myself in a fortnite`s time when I have an empty fermenter. But I`ll only be doing it to the exact recipe, which brings me to this important point-what is the right brewing temp for it?
No wild guesses please, and Boonie....... if it`s less than 5 star I`ll be on the first flight to Newcastle with a big stick

ryan, I'd try to keep your ferment somewhere around 18 to 20ºC.
You'll find the appropriate yeast, i.e. WLP001, US56 or US05, Chico Ale, or American Ale yeast is very clean and neutral fermenting, and they shouldn't give you any yeast influenced flavours etc.
You'll love the beer, I'm sure, even the extract version.
I do suggest, IMHO, to drink it within 3 months to get the best of it as, in my experience, I started to lose the essential hop flavour and aroma after that.

Thanks warra ta
18-20 it is then. I`m a big fan of the us56 , always have some in the fridge as standby. And I`m assuming the recipe is for 22.5 l?

ryan wrote:I`m assuming the recipe is for 22.5 l?

That's what I made mine up to.

ryan wrote:Oh all right- there`s been such a hullabaloo over this LCPA clone that I will try it for myself in a fortnite`s time when I have an empty fermenter. But I`ll only be doing it to the exact recipe, which brings me to this important point-what is the right brewing temp for it?
No wild guesses please, and Boonie....... if it`s less than 5 star I`ll be on the first flight to Newcastle with a big stick

Make it to 22.5-23 Litres.

I hope it turns out well, otherwise you will beat me up and also install the boxing gloves on my computer.

Try and keep it around 18-20 degrees...but I have even had success with it going over that.

Cheers

Boonie

Temp control is no problem, thanks.

Bottling it on Monday after 12 days at a steady 17*and a couple of days to bring up to room temp.
Really smells good.

Bottled. I could be quite impressed by this beer!
Which brings me to this- has anyone tried swapping the Morgans draught for Coopers draught and making up the difference in the IBU?

I made it using that kit and i also made it using the Grumpys tins of goop. Key is the hops and the yeast not which brand of goop you use.

drsmurto wrote:I made it using that kit and i also made it using the Grumpys tins of goop. Key is the hops and the yeast not which brand of goop you use.

yeah but the Coopers draught is only 23 IBU, which is less than that of the original recipe, isn`t it?

Yes, the morgans tin is 28 IBUs so you need to get an extra 5 IBUs in to the recipe. Which is yet another reason i swapped the hopping order around.