I'm about to put together a dark ale using the Tooheys kit can, 1kg LDME (I'm guessing I should have used DLME

Cheers
That all depends on the AA% of your hops, and what you are trying to achieve.Slash wrote:Thanks for all the help guys. I've picked up about 50g of Goldings from the local HBS, how should I use them in the boil (ie how long)?
G'day Slash,Slash wrote:Hi guys
I'm about to put together a dark ale using the Tooheys kit can, 1kg LDME (I'm guessing I should have used DLME) and 500g dextrose. Which yeast should I use (No way am I using the yeast that comes with a Tooheys kit), and also any ideas about hopping? I do boils of roughly 5L usually for around 20 mins and my Pale Ales come out pretty well but I've never ventured beyond that.
Cheers
That clears it all up for me! Will trek on down to local HBS and pick up 250g of Dark crystal malt and give this a blast ASAP.Trough Lolly wrote:G'day Slash,
You need a couple of litres to steep the grains in, a litre or so to rinse the sugars out of the grains in the bag (just sit the bag in a colander over the pot and drizzle some 60C water over the bag to rinse - it's not unlike sparging the grains as the all grainers do) and then top up the resultant sweet liquor to around 6L so you've got a reasonable boil volume to work with the flavouring hops that I mentioned. Avoid over rinsing - you'll only release harsh tannins from the grain matter and ruin your final product so don't rinse any more than 1.5L over the grains. One point I did overlook was the option to add the LDME to the boil as well. If you find the hops a bit too strong, you can use less hops, or, next time add the unhopped LDM extract to the 6L of crystal extract and boil the lot for 30 mins. The gravity (thickness / concentration) in the boil does affect the extraction of hop compounds but I won't get too complicated on that at the moment .
All grainers typically boil for 60 to 90 minutes, to get bittering components out of the hops. You'd be doing a 30 minute boil to get flavouring from the hops as the kit that you'd use has already been bittered (and don't toss the kit into the boil - it's not necessary). The goldings hop addition is to balance out the additional sweetness that you've added to the kit, ie, the crystal and malt extract. As you become more experienced, we'll look at how to calculate more precisely the malt / hops balance to deliver particular styles of beer...
You can use the same principles above to your pale ales - steep some light or pale crystal - rinse - boil with a hop addition (cascade, chinook, amarillo, simcoe are all good) and the malt extract in around 6L and you'll be fine.
You also asked about choice of yeast. I can recommend SO-4 dry yeast for a dark ale such as this. US-05 dry yeast is also a good general purpose yeast and would be well suited to your pale ales. Part of the joy of brewing is to do batches with different types of yeast and see which ones you prefer.
Cheers,
TL
Yes, the grains need to be crushed first. Your HB shop should be able to do that for you.Slash wrote:Two more quick questions... do I have to crack the grains first, and how long do I steep the grains before I rinse?
Fantastic, cheers Warra.warra48 wrote:Yes, the grains need to be crushed first. Your HB shop should be able to do that for you.Slash wrote:Two more quick questions... do I have to crack the grains first, and how long do I steep the grains before I rinse?
30 minutes steeping is fine, but up to na hour is OK too.