New Brewer any tips
New Brewer any tips
Hi, Ive just mixd my first batch, verry exciting. I brewed the coopers mexican. Where should i store while fermenting i have it covered in a cupboard in the garage, it is temping at about 20 - 22 degrees will this be ok. I am a little unsure how to read my hydrometer, it starts in the top at 1.000 with red band around it then goes down by 10 then 20 and so on until it gets to 1.100 so im not to sure when you guys say should be bottled at 1006, does that mean at the 60 or just under the 10, silly question i know but im only a newbie. Appreciate all the help.
http://www.homebrewandbeer.com/forum/vi ... php?t=1966
aaand...
http://www.grapestompers.com/articles/h ... er_use.htm
on the second link, ignore the wine-specific examples - read through the "How A Hydrometer Works" and "How To Use The Hydrometer" sections.. and when it mentions using a "wine thief", just ignore that - you'll be using the tap at the bottom of your fermenter.
once you've read that, try to take your hydrometer readings again. 1.100 (or 1100 as it's usually expressed) is a VERY high reading, which would make a VERY strong beer once fermented out.. it's highly unlikely.
basically, sugars are heavier than water, so they make the beer more dense. this makes the hydrometer float higher. A typical starting gravity is around 1040 to 1050. as the yeast ferments the sugars away making CO2 and alcohol (among other trace chemicals), it reduces the density of the beer. this is partly because the sugars are effectively gone, and partly because alcohol in itself is only about 3 quarters as dense as plain water. a typical finishing gravity is (roughly) between 1006 and 1015, depending on ingredients used.
aaand...
http://www.grapestompers.com/articles/h ... er_use.htm
on the second link, ignore the wine-specific examples - read through the "How A Hydrometer Works" and "How To Use The Hydrometer" sections.. and when it mentions using a "wine thief", just ignore that - you'll be using the tap at the bottom of your fermenter.
once you've read that, try to take your hydrometer readings again. 1.100 (or 1100 as it's usually expressed) is a VERY high reading, which would make a VERY strong beer once fermented out.. it's highly unlikely.
basically, sugars are heavier than water, so they make the beer more dense. this makes the hydrometer float higher. A typical starting gravity is around 1040 to 1050. as the yeast ferments the sugars away making CO2 and alcohol (among other trace chemicals), it reduces the density of the beer. this is partly because the sugars are effectively gone, and partly because alcohol in itself is only about 3 quarters as dense as plain water. a typical finishing gravity is (roughly) between 1006 and 1015, depending on ingredients used.
I'd suggest you don't bother with racking your first few brews, as IMHO the advantages are not worth the bother as against the possible risks. It is perfectly OK to leave them in the fermenter for approx 2 weeks before you bottle your brew. It should also ensure it is fully fermented out, and nicely settled and cleared.mmmmbeer wrote:Thanks keg, that link on the hydometer is verry usefull, In the first link he sais to rack your beer by buying a second fermentor and a bit of hose but doesent really explain what to do with it, do you know what he means by this.
(No, I do not want to start another racking v. no racking debate)
I don't agree with you there, racking to a secondary and chucking it in the fridge for a few weeks makes the beer much better ( well for Lagers anyway ). It helps pull the yeast out of the brew and give you a clearer beer, which doesn't have that much of that 'home brew' as if you don't.
I do it to almost all brews now, and I think its worth it.
Patience os the best tip I think peopel should be giving you. Making a brew, bottling it and then drinking it after a week will just give you a dissapointing result. Usually the longer you leave it, the better it will get.
As for Racking, and the tube and second fermentor, its very simple. Basically you just drain the brew from the first fermenter into the second one.
Another good beginner tip is to bulk prime. Much better then wasting time buying those lollies to carbonate beer or worse still, using teaspoons of sugar to carbonate.
In my experience, bulk priming when bottling with dextrose you get much better and even carbonation across your batch, as well as a better head as well.
my 2c anyway.
p.s. Probably the next best tip is what you have already done. Come onto a forum like this for advice and ideas. This forum is a gold mine with people who have great knowledge and experience and of course opinions. You will be back and keep coming here if you get right into brewing.
I do it to almost all brews now, and I think its worth it.
Patience os the best tip I think peopel should be giving you. Making a brew, bottling it and then drinking it after a week will just give you a dissapointing result. Usually the longer you leave it, the better it will get.
As for Racking, and the tube and second fermentor, its very simple. Basically you just drain the brew from the first fermenter into the second one.
Another good beginner tip is to bulk prime. Much better then wasting time buying those lollies to carbonate beer or worse still, using teaspoons of sugar to carbonate.
In my experience, bulk priming when bottling with dextrose you get much better and even carbonation across your batch, as well as a better head as well.
my 2c anyway.
p.s. Probably the next best tip is what you have already done. Come onto a forum like this for advice and ideas. This forum is a gold mine with people who have great knowledge and experience and of course opinions. You will be back and keep coming here if you get right into brewing.
Who ever said nothing was impossible, never tried to slam a revolving door....
http://www.homebrewandbeer.com/forum/vi ... bulk+primemmmmbeer wrote:What do you guys mean by Bulk Priming.
Welcome.mmmmbeer wrote:Thanks for all the tips guys, its a great site ill keep coming back for sure.
w00t!