Storing fresh wort
They arnt really that hard bugman if you keep on top of it, in saying that you wouldnt want to try and clean one thats had leftovers in it for a month but as long as they are kept well rinsed then they are fine, i have 2 that i use all the time for racking/lagering and never had any dramas



Cheers
Leigh
Leigh
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I've used one as a primary fermenter a couple of times and didn't get a real good feel from it.
I used a pressure washer to remove the trub and other gunk before the sodium percarbonate tide came in, but still didn't get a real good feel from it.
I am sure that will change when I find myself wanting to brew or bottle something and without an empty fermenter...
I used a pressure washer to remove the trub and other gunk before the sodium percarbonate tide came in, but still didn't get a real good feel from it.
I am sure that will change when I find myself wanting to brew or bottle something and without an empty fermenter...
No Mash Tun. No Chill.
No confirmed fatalities.
No confirmed fatalities.
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From experience with lagering for a few weeks, a brown water line mark appears near the top that rinsing doesn't remove. I soak mine in a bleach solution overnight and upside down and no more brown watermark and sanitization all in one.OldBugman wrote:only thing I can think is it's a bit tougher to clean a cube, but people use em for lagering and they'd need to be clean to do that.
Sounds like Beer O'clock.
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generally, how long does it take the wort to reduce from kettle temperature to room temps?
I was thinking of using the no chiller method, as the chilling wort problem is the only thing between me and my first AG.
I have a 20 L jerry can which would be great for wort storage while it cools, as it would have almost no headspace, but some seem to go straight to fermenter.
What's the general consensus on that one?
I was thinking of using the no chiller method, as the chilling wort problem is the only thing between me and my first AG.
I have a 20 L jerry can which would be great for wort storage while it cools, as it would have almost no headspace, but some seem to go straight to fermenter.
What's the general consensus on that one?
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Newton's Law of Cooling applies. It depends on how hot your wort is and how hot your house (or where ever you're putting your cube) as well as the SG (although this latter part can be ignored for Government Work). The cooler your house is the quicker the wort will cool.
It seems that most cubists leave their cubes overnight or so. This seems to me to be the easiest measurement of all. I chill using a big water bath, but expect to move to no-chill before too long.
I've been thinking about going straight to the fermenter. I can't see a problem with it but am yet to decide which way I will go. Chances are I will try both in an attempt to decide and settle on whichever is easiest or fails me least. I do think the cubists have one benefit in that if life gets in the way, the wort can stay in the cube until your next window of opportunity.
It seems that most cubists leave their cubes overnight or so. This seems to me to be the easiest measurement of all. I chill using a big water bath, but expect to move to no-chill before too long.
I've been thinking about going straight to the fermenter. I can't see a problem with it but am yet to decide which way I will go. Chances are I will try both in an attempt to decide and settle on whichever is easiest or fails me least. I do think the cubists have one benefit in that if life gets in the way, the wort can stay in the cube until your next window of opportunity.
No Mash Tun. No Chill.
No confirmed fatalities.
No confirmed fatalities.
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- Location: Collingwood, Australia
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Most often I just pre-chill 15 litres of water down to around 4C overnight in the fridge and switch from tap water to cube water towards the end of the chill like here http://brodiescastlebrewing.com/index.php?topic=607.0beerdrinker wrote:thats actually a good idea with the swimming pool! my copper chiller cools 20L to 25C in about 15mins! what would be the best way to get it down to 17C before pitching yeast? a copper prechiller is a little expensive at the moment
Yesterday I didn't have the pre-chilled water so stopped the tap water chill at 30C and then transfered to fermenter after settling. It took about 6 hrs to get down to 19C from 30C. My fermenting fridge is just an old bar fridge, so I guess it would take less time in something like a fan forced fridge. All depends on the surrounding air temp. At zero degrees ambient, it should take around 4 hrs to drop a fermenter from 25C to 17C.
Cheers, Ed
So the bartender says to the horse "Why the long face?"
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I did similar to this with BIAB Batch #2 and had Convincing Airlock Action when I woke up the next morning. Dunno if it was this, or the extra nutrient or aeration, but if it happens the next time I do it, I am going to adopt it as my own. I *love* short lag times.lethaldog wrote:Why not just pitch at 25*C and let it cool over night, you will probably reduce lag time also as most yeast like a warm enviroment to reproduce

No Mash Tun. No Chill.
No confirmed fatalities.
No confirmed fatalities.
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- Joined: Friday Nov 24, 2006 5:07 pm
- Location: Collingwood, Australia
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No probs. One thing I've found is you need to squeeze the hose to constrict the flow first and then let it go. That helps the full flow get going. Also, keep the cold container up high which will create a faster flow.beerdrinker wrote:just checked your link Ed! what a great idea!!! i might put a spare fermenter full of water in the freezerproblem solved cheers
I agree with Tispsy's comment too, and in my opinion you do get better results pitching close to the desired ferment temp.
Cheers, Ed
So the bartender says to the horse "Why the long face?"