New Brewer v. interested in the aformentioned beer.
Can anyone suggested a recipe involving honey also. I've found a couple but really need advise on the acronyms used, the exact procedures, and why all the ingredients (i.e. malt extract etc) - does that mean less of the Cascade mixture itslef.
Obviously I have just started and would love some advise; its kind of hard to pick up on everything when I'm starting for a 0 level of knowledge.
Cascade Choc Mahog Porter: Improvements
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ignisdraconis
- Posts: 14
- Joined: Monday Jan 22, 2007 5:37 pm
All kit cans, with the exception of MSB, need somethign else added to them. Just the can on its own is not enough, and will produce a light beer (2.3% ABV or so) in 22 litres of water.
Normally, the kit cans will have in their instructions to add 1kg of dextrose or 1kg of some brew booster, which brings the alcohol up to strength. However, you can add a number of different things for the same effect.
1kg of dextrose adds the alcohol, but does nothing to the body, resulting in a thin and dry beer.
1kg of Dry Malt Extract adds slightly less alcohol than 1kg of dextrose, as it it less fermentable, but these leftover parts add flavour and boost the body of the beer.
1kg brew boosters serve as a cheaper halfway house between the above two options, usually using equal parts dextrose and corn syrup.
For the choc mahogany porter, may I suggest the entire can, plus 500g of Coopers Light Dry Malt Extract and 500g of non-eucalyptus honey, clover is usually preferred. This will produce a beer of roughly 4.9% after bottling.
Also, there is a sticky thread at the top of this forum which lists all the acronyms in the brew world.
Normally, the kit cans will have in their instructions to add 1kg of dextrose or 1kg of some brew booster, which brings the alcohol up to strength. However, you can add a number of different things for the same effect.
1kg of dextrose adds the alcohol, but does nothing to the body, resulting in a thin and dry beer.
1kg of Dry Malt Extract adds slightly less alcohol than 1kg of dextrose, as it it less fermentable, but these leftover parts add flavour and boost the body of the beer.
1kg brew boosters serve as a cheaper halfway house between the above two options, usually using equal parts dextrose and corn syrup.
For the choc mahogany porter, may I suggest the entire can, plus 500g of Coopers Light Dry Malt Extract and 500g of non-eucalyptus honey, clover is usually preferred. This will produce a beer of roughly 4.9% after bottling.
Also, there is a sticky thread at the top of this forum which lists all the acronyms in the brew world.
Het Witte Konijn
I've made Wassa's recipe and it was great. Will definitely be doing that one again soon.
http://www.homebrewandbeer.com/forum/vi ... php?t=1732
http://www.homebrewandbeer.com/forum/vi ... php?t=1732
Welcome to the brew world.
The Cascade Choc Mahogany Porter was the second brew I ever did. For you first go at a Porter I'd recommend following Wassa's recipe or close to it.
At a minumum, the CMP kit + Brew Enhancer 2 + some finishing hops & only fill to 18 litres.
I've done about 6 batches of Dark Ale / Porter & can give you plenty of ideas once you're more familiar with the process. You will be steeping grains before you know it!
The Cascade Choc Mahogany Porter was the second brew I ever did. For you first go at a Porter I'd recommend following Wassa's recipe or close to it.
At a minumum, the CMP kit + Brew Enhancer 2 + some finishing hops & only fill to 18 litres.
I've done about 6 batches of Dark Ale / Porter & can give you plenty of ideas once you're more familiar with the process. You will be steeping grains before you know it!
Ride, Drink, Repeat.
Maaaaate! Am keen to go a porter, any suggestions of the best improvements to make would be greatly appreciated - maybe start a new thread with your wisdom on this topic. I am a hop junky and have done a few grain additions so any ideas on tweaking a porter.......velophile wrote:I've done about 6 batches of Dark Ale / Porter & can give you plenty of ideas once you're more familiar with the process. You will be steeping grains before you know it!
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ignisdraconis
- Posts: 14
- Joined: Monday Jan 22, 2007 5:37 pm
"1kg of Dry Malt" - Do you mean the stuff in a can or a bag? Also, why would others suggest "LDME" - which I assume is light dry malt extract goo from a can, as oppossed to Dry Malt?
Also, how are the hops prepared and added?
Another one, I assume it needs priming, even though its not a lager. Any preferable amount of water, I have read 18l and 22l?
And finally....I have read of one brew taking a month before being ready to bottle, is this right? What hydrometer reading would suffice?
Thanks guys, you are legends! One day I hope to give you advise/tips, one day......
Also, how are the hops prepared and added?
Another one, I assume it needs priming, even though its not a lager. Any preferable amount of water, I have read 18l and 22l?
And finally....I have read of one brew taking a month before being ready to bottle, is this right? What hydrometer reading would suffice?
Thanks guys, you are legends! One day I hope to give you advise/tips, one day......
Sticky: Common brewing terms and acronyms
Make it to 23L if you're doing Wassa's recipe. Anything less and it'd start to get a bit strong.
You will need to prime. I would go for 160g/23L.
A week in primary and a week in secondary is probably optimal. In general thoguh, a ferment is complete once you get the same hydrometer reading two days in a row. I just can't be bothered taking the readings, and your beers will be better with a bit longer in the fermenter anyway.
Hops: when I do Wassa's recipe, I add the hops 10 minutes before the end of the boil, because I prefer flavour over aroma.
So:
1. Add Dark Dry Malt to 2L of water in pot, bring to boil.
2. Add Cascade hops
3. 8 minutes later, add honey, was out the jar with a little hot water
4. 1 minute later, add the kit can, scrape it out and rinse with hot water, stir it in to make sure it's properly dissolved.
5. Turn it all off, add it to your fermenter which should be half full of water.
6. Top up to 23L, pitch yeast, leave for a week
7. (optionally) rack, leave for a week
8. Bottle
Make it to 23L if you're doing Wassa's recipe. Anything less and it'd start to get a bit strong.
You will need to prime. I would go for 160g/23L.
A week in primary and a week in secondary is probably optimal. In general thoguh, a ferment is complete once you get the same hydrometer reading two days in a row. I just can't be bothered taking the readings, and your beers will be better with a bit longer in the fermenter anyway.
Hops: when I do Wassa's recipe, I add the hops 10 minutes before the end of the boil, because I prefer flavour over aroma.
So:
1. Add Dark Dry Malt to 2L of water in pot, bring to boil.
2. Add Cascade hops
3. 8 minutes later, add honey, was out the jar with a little hot water
4. 1 minute later, add the kit can, scrape it out and rinse with hot water, stir it in to make sure it's properly dissolved.
5. Turn it all off, add it to your fermenter which should be half full of water.
6. Top up to 23L, pitch yeast, leave for a week
7. (optionally) rack, leave for a week
8. Bottle
Last edited by rwh on Tuesday Jan 23, 2007 1:56 pm, edited 1 time in total.
w00t!
LDM, LDME, DME etc, are the same thing. The 'dry' means that it is a dry powder, not liquid.
As for the hops, a stovetop boil of the malt extract, with 1hr for bitterness, 20mins for flavour, and 1-2mins for aroma. Or better yet, dry hop for aroma. Just chuck the pellets in to secondary.
Both ales and lagers both require priming- the process that leads to carbonation of the final beer.
As for the amount of water to use, that depends on the gravity you want. For heavier beers, you generally use less water. If you are doing kits, read the instructions.
With the hydrometer, you need 2 identical readings 24hrs apart to ensure the beer is ready. I doubt it will take a month for you in most cases.
As for the hops, a stovetop boil of the malt extract, with 1hr for bitterness, 20mins for flavour, and 1-2mins for aroma. Or better yet, dry hop for aroma. Just chuck the pellets in to secondary.
Both ales and lagers both require priming- the process that leads to carbonation of the final beer.
As for the amount of water to use, that depends on the gravity you want. For heavier beers, you generally use less water. If you are doing kits, read the instructions.
With the hydrometer, you need 2 identical readings 24hrs apart to ensure the beer is ready. I doubt it will take a month for you in most cases.
drsmurto wrote:Maaaaate! Am keen to go a porter, any suggestions of the best improvements to make would be greatly appreciated - maybe start a new thread with your wisdom on this topic. I am a hop junky and have done a few grain additions so any ideas on tweaking a porter.......velophile wrote:I've done about 6 batches of Dark Ale / Porter & can give you plenty of ideas once you're more familiar with the process. You will be steeping grains before you know it!
MMmmmm.... Porter!
I'll post some recipes & results etc in a new thread when I have my records to hand.
Ride, Drink, Repeat.
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ignisdraconis
- Posts: 14
- Joined: Monday Jan 22, 2007 5:37 pm
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Aussie Claret
- Posts: 655
- Joined: Thursday Sep 01, 2005 11:55 am
- Location: Gold Coast
If you don't mind one more suggestion, change the god damn awful yeast, that this kit comes with. It's supplied with some type of bohemian ale/lager yeast and is just awful.
For an Ale try US56, or Lager try one of the Saf lager dry yeasts, fermented at the correct temps will improve this poor kit.
It was the worst kit I ever made when making K&K.
Good Luck.
AC
For an Ale try US56, or Lager try one of the Saf lager dry yeasts, fermented at the correct temps will improve this poor kit.
It was the worst kit I ever made when making K&K.
Good Luck.
AC
There's nothing wrong with having nothing to say - unless you insist on saying it. (Anonymous)
Agree change the yeast, makes a large difference.Aussie Claret wrote:If you don't mind one more suggestion, change the god damn awful yeast, that this kit comes with. It's supplied with some type of bohemian ale/lager yeast and is just awful.
For an Ale try US56, or Lager try one of the Saf lager dry yeasts, fermented at the correct temps will improve this poor kit.
It was the worst kit I ever made when making K&K
Good Luck.
AC
Worst K & K......nup.
Spicy Ghost.
A homebrew is like a fart, only the brewer thinks it's great.
Give me a flying headbutt.......
Give me a flying headbutt.......