One thing I hate in HB's is the lemonde size fizz due to what I believe is the following problems.
1. The carbonation drops provided by Coopers are different shapes and sizes, therefore how can they be consistent?
2. Most bottles I can find are 650ml, yet the sugar shovels provided at the HB shops are designed for 750ml
The last two brews I have used white sugar and marked out a proportional line on the sugar shovel for 650ml. The brew is slighly less carbonated, and more of a creamy texture.
Does anyone have a good alternative to white sugar for priming?[/b]
priming
a) if you want consistency, bulk prime.
b) if you want an alternative to sucrose, use the "standard", which is dextrose.
I guess I'll post this again *sigh*: The Essential Guide to Bulk Priming
b) if you want an alternative to sucrose, use the "standard", which is dextrose.
I guess I'll post this again *sigh*: The Essential Guide to Bulk Priming
w00t!
racking ....
All that I can say in respect of racking, is the times I have done this the beer has tasted better, with heaps less sediment.
The 1st time i bulk primed well the only time it was easy. I opened a bottle yesterday and when i did she just spurted out. Other i have drunk where fine. Im not sure i might of acidently shock it up but im not sure why it did this.........
I think i used 180grms of dex in a little hot water to desolve it. Am not sure if im going to do this with the next lot
I think i used 180grms of dex in a little hot water to desolve it. Am not sure if im going to do this with the next lot
malt?
What type of malt would you recommend?
And if not bulk priming would I use the same quantity as with white sugar?
And if not bulk priming would I use the same quantity as with white sugar?
Light dry malt will do the trick.
And the priming amount is different with malt than with sugar, as malt is less fermentable.
Just divide 375g by 30, and work out how much you need per bottle.
One last thing about using malt: it takes longer to carbonate. 3-4 weeks will usually be enough, but up to 6 if you keep them somewhere a little cooler.
And the priming amount is different with malt than with sugar, as malt is less fermentable.
Just divide 375g by 30, and work out how much you need per bottle.
One last thing about using malt: it takes longer to carbonate. 3-4 weeks will usually be enough, but up to 6 if you keep them somewhere a little cooler.
Like that ideaChris wrote:When you bulk prime, make sure that the priming solution and the beer are thoroughly mixed, otherwise too much sugar can end up in some bottles.
Also, use malt instead of dextrose. It produces smaller bubbles, and finer head. 1 1/2 cups will do the job nicely.
Thanks Chris
Boonie
A homebrew is like a fart, only the brewer thinks it's great.
Give me a flying headbutt.......
Give me a flying headbutt.......
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possessed_haemorrhage
- Posts: 71
- Joined: Saturday Sep 02, 2006 2:31 pm
- Location: Cronulla
I have a question. I'm only onto my second brew ever, which has currently been in the fermenter for 3 days. After reading this thread I'm going to give racking, and bulk priming a go instead of using the carbonation drops.
So is this how it should go?
Ferment in Primary (I read someone does this for 2 weeks, then racks, but also read other people rack after 4 days or so, so I'm confused. Im guessing I should do it after about 4 or 5 days, so the beer can continue to ferment and push out any air. A smaller fermenter would be good for this, correct?)
Rack to secondary (another week?)
Rack back to clean primary
Prime with 1 1/2 cups Malt
Bottle
Cheers,
Stephen
So is this how it should go?
Ferment in Primary (I read someone does this for 2 weeks, then racks, but also read other people rack after 4 days or so, so I'm confused. Im guessing I should do it after about 4 or 5 days, so the beer can continue to ferment and push out any air. A smaller fermenter would be good for this, correct?)
Rack to secondary (another week?)
Rack back to clean primary
Prime with 1 1/2 cups Malt
Bottle
Cheers,
Stephen
1. Brew in primary.
2. Rack into secondary. When you do this is a matter of personal opinion. Some like 7 days primary, 7 days secondary, 14 days cold condition. Others like to rack when the brew is 2/3 complete. Still others like to rack onto a tablespoon of sugar to kick it along and ensure CO2 purges the head space. Whatever, it's not that important. Whether you rack at 5 days or 7, there is still fermentation going on, so the yeast will mop up the O2 before it does too much damage to your beer. Don't sweat it, just rack when you're ready.
3. Bulk prime. You do this by boiling up whatever you're going to use, say 180g of dex or 210g of light dry malt in a bit of water, say a cup or two. Add this hot sugar syrup to your empty fermenter. Then get a bit of food grade tube (size that fits inside your tap, and length to reach all the way to the bottom of your empty fermenter), put one end into your tap, the other end into your fermenter in such a way that the beer will swirl around in a circular motion to mix in the sugar. Then turn on the tap. Turn off the tap just before you suck up sludge.
4. Bottle. Attach the bottler and bottle as normal.
HTH.
2. Rack into secondary. When you do this is a matter of personal opinion. Some like 7 days primary, 7 days secondary, 14 days cold condition. Others like to rack when the brew is 2/3 complete. Still others like to rack onto a tablespoon of sugar to kick it along and ensure CO2 purges the head space. Whatever, it's not that important. Whether you rack at 5 days or 7, there is still fermentation going on, so the yeast will mop up the O2 before it does too much damage to your beer. Don't sweat it, just rack when you're ready.
3. Bulk prime. You do this by boiling up whatever you're going to use, say 180g of dex or 210g of light dry malt in a bit of water, say a cup or two. Add this hot sugar syrup to your empty fermenter. Then get a bit of food grade tube (size that fits inside your tap, and length to reach all the way to the bottom of your empty fermenter), put one end into your tap, the other end into your fermenter in such a way that the beer will swirl around in a circular motion to mix in the sugar. Then turn on the tap. Turn off the tap just before you suck up sludge.
4. Bottle. Attach the bottler and bottle as normal.
HTH.
w00t!
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possessed_haemorrhage
- Posts: 71
- Joined: Saturday Sep 02, 2006 2:31 pm
- Location: Cronulla
I use all different size bottles, and after reading this forum, decided to try the bulk priming. I had a Coopers Bavarian Lager that was ready to bottle so last Friday went and bought a second fermentor. I used about 160g sugar dissolved in 300ml boiling water. The final volume in the secondary after transferring from the primary was 21L.
I had one hiccup in that I bought a 2mtr length of tubing, thinking I'll cut it to size, but then forgot to shorten the length, so there were about 4 coils in the bottom of the secondary. This caused the transfer to stop with about 6L left in the primary, so had to lift the primary up higher, which then stirred up some of the sediment.
I'm hooked on the concept of bulk priming. Also keen to try priming with malt for the smaller bubbles.
I had one hiccup in that I bought a 2mtr length of tubing, thinking I'll cut it to size, but then forgot to shorten the length, so there were about 4 coils in the bottom of the secondary. This caused the transfer to stop with about 6L left in the primary, so had to lift the primary up higher, which then stirred up some of the sediment.
I'm hooked on the concept of bulk priming. Also keen to try priming with malt for the smaller bubbles.
I just remebered I had left the air lock in. 
With only a small amount left, the pressure was probably not enough to suck in air, so it just stopped. Moving it higher probably added enough pressure to suck air though the air lock again. Luckly fermentation had caused a lot of the water in the lock to bubble out, so it was reletivly empty, none of it "seemed" to get sucked into the brew.
Next time i'll take out the airlock.
With only a small amount left, the pressure was probably not enough to suck in air, so it just stopped. Moving it higher probably added enough pressure to suck air though the air lock again. Luckly fermentation had caused a lot of the water in the lock to bubble out, so it was reletivly empty, none of it "seemed" to get sucked into the brew.
Next time i'll take out the airlock.