Hydrometer

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Haggy
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Hydrometer

Post by Haggy »

Hi
Excuse my ignorance, Im still new to this whole brewing thing. I have never used a Hydrometer, however after reading more and more on here, I think it is probably a good idea that I should.

Can anybody please give me a simple run down of how to use my hydrometer? Do I remove the lid off my fermenter and sit the hydrometer in the brew, or do I pour some liquid out into a container and try and get it to float? :roll:

Any help is appreciated. Please go easy on me, Im a newbie!!! :)

Cheers
Chris
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lethaldog
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Post by lethaldog »

I never use a hydrometer either as i dont feel it is necesary, especialy if you rack and let it sit for a couple of weeks, The main reason i can see for using one is to determine alch% but if your a kit brewer then i would not be to concerned, im sure im gonna get shot down by others here but like i said i never use one and havent had any problems, the best way to use though if you choose to is put some liquid (beer) into the tube that the hydrometer comes in, three quarter fill it or there abouts and drop the hydrometer in then give it a swirl in either direction to get any bubbles off it and read it as it sits :lol:
Shaun
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Post by Shaun »

If you do use it take a sample out of your tap into the tube the hydrometer came in, about 1/3, 1/2 full then tip this out.

Wash tube

Refill 2/3 with beer from fermenter tap

Place hydrometer in the beer and give it a spin backwards and forwards to get all the bubbles off it.

Take a reading, this is the level where the beer is up to on the floating hydrometer.
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gregb
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Post by gregb »

Krusty
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Post by Krusty »

I agree with Shaun's method. Take a half sample first to clear the tap of sediment and chuck out and rinse. Then fill tube 2/3 and take a reading.
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da_damage_done
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Post by da_damage_done »

i haven`t used a hydrometer for ages either
Haggy
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Post by Haggy »

Thanks Guys, this is appreciated.
Out of curiousity, is this the same for obtaining a hydrometer reading after mixing up the brew? For example, mix up the brew, add the yeast, stir and and empty out some brew and take a reading, then seal up and let it do its thing prior to taking a final reading?

Cheers
Chris
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Boonie
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Post by Boonie »

Haggy wrote:Thanks Guys, this is appreciated.
Out of curiousity, is this the same for obtaining a hydrometer reading after mixing up the brew? For example, mix up the brew, add the yeast, stir and and empty out some brew and take a reading, then seal up and let it do its thing prior to taking a final reading?

Cheers
Chris
I generally take my measure about a couple of hours after I have put down. Can't see a prob with doing straight after mixing brew, but, if it was me, I'd just let it settle a little, but seal whilst waiting...ie have another beer.

Totally agree with guys about getting the second reading at start. Did a Coopers Sparkling and the Hydrometer leapt out of the tube, due to malt and stuff in the tap. Took second reading (get shite out of tap) and all was well.
:wink:
If you have a sediment reducer as most of us would, it catches the malt very well....unfortunately.

I also check when brew finished for 2 days in a row to ensure that the brew is not still cooking. If it has a constant reading, should be safe for bottling. I have not had one blow up yet, in over 2000 bottles done. :D
Last edited by Boonie on Tuesday Aug 22, 2006 7:42 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Boonie
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Post by Boonie »

lethaldog wrote:I never use a hydrometer either as i dont feel it is necesary, especialy if you rack and let it sit for a couple of weeks, The main reason i can see for using one is to determine alch% but if your a kit brewer then i would not be to concerned, im sure im gonna get shot down by others here but like i said i never use one and havent had any problems, the best way to use though if you choose to is put some liquid (beer) into the tube that the hydrometer comes in, three quarter fill it or there abouts and drop the hydrometer in then give it a swirl in either direction to get any bubbles off it and read it as it sits :lol:
Lethal, I have done a couple with racking and the secondary ferment does not appear to get as much CO2 as when I bottle straight from original brew.

Do you alter the sugar levels, bulk prime, or do you have gas? (insert fart joke here)
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shane_vor
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Post by shane_vor »

Ah I've been shot down plenty of times for my attitude towards hydrometers...

You can measure, or at least should do immediately prior to pitching the yeast. One could argue that delay in pitching the yeast invites infection.

Then measure when you think fermentation has concluded, then again to make sure, then again to make doubly sure things haven't kicked off again...

Brewing commercial beer may be an exact science, I don't believe brewing beer at home is.

I don't use a hydrometer and indeed, have not, although I still have one in my kit box, for several years (I'm almost too embarrassed to state categorically exactly how many years...).

I'll just stand by for the flaming again, but I only do what works or me. If it doesn't work for others each to their own I say. Just be aware of the different methods available. I also don't use glad wrap for a lid for my fermenters...but then I've recently binned glass fermenter whilst working with my brain switched off...some might say that situation occurs more than I'd like to admit... :oops:

For the record I'm sipping quietly on a Pilsener to die for, brewed without the use of a hydrometer AND half of which was lost to mother earth after leaving the fermenter tap open...goes to show even the best beer can come from the worst experiences!
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lethaldog
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Post by lethaldog »

Boonie wrote:
lethaldog wrote:I never use a hydrometer either as i dont feel it is necesary, especialy if you rack and let it sit for a couple of weeks, The main reason i can see for using one is to determine alch% but if your a kit brewer then i would not be to concerned, im sure im gonna get shot down by others here but like i said i never use one and havent had any problems, the best way to use though if you choose to is put some liquid (beer) into the tube that the hydrometer comes in, three quarter fill it or there abouts and drop the hydrometer in then give it a swirl in either direction to get any bubbles off it and read it as it sits :lol:
Lethal, I have done a couple with racking and the secondary ferment does not appear to get as much CO2 as when I bottle straight from original brew.

Do you alter the sugar levels, bulk prime, or do you have gas? (Q. whats the sharpest thing in the world? A. a fart as it cuts through you pants without even making a hole! :lol: :lol: )
i bulk prime using the calculator here http://www.geocities.com/lesjudith/Alco ... lator.html
Never had a problem with it, its very acurate :lol:
Noodles
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Post by Noodles »

So am i right in saying the people here who don't use hydrometers don't care what the alc percentage is in their brews? Or is there another way to work it out?
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lethaldog
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Post by lethaldog »

If you have been brewing for a while then you should have a fair idea anyway, but you would find that most kit and kilos would be in the vasinity of 4.8-5.4% and if thats all your doin then why check it all the time, If you add more to your recipes then most brewers would know within a % or 2 what sort of effect this will have, so i guess if it concerns you greatly we all have the option as most of us have a hydrometer, Whatever works for the individual, i know that my beer is strong when 2 glasses gets me there and if its not then maybe 2-3 bottles sorts me out so i dont personally see any need for a hydrometer unless i do say AG which i havent yet :lol: :lol:
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rwh
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Post by rwh »

You can get an estimate of the final alcohol content from the amout of fermentables you add using a calculator like this brewcraft one:

http://www.brewcraft.com.au/wa.asp?idWe ... etails=172

Of course it's only an estimate because it doesn't take into account the different attenuation ability of different yeast strains.
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drtom
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Post by drtom »

I had a feeling that some kits gave approximate OGs and FGs, but the couple of Coopers kits I just checked (the advantages of working from home!), didn't. I'm sure that the Cascade kits[*] I've done have said "Don't bottle until the SG has dropped below <some>", which should give you an approximate FG. Remember that since you're about to divide by [about] 7.5, the reading doesn't have to be terribly precise.

I use a hydrometer to measure the OG and FG, but I tend to let things go long enough that I don't have to bother doing the 2 days in a row thing. Also, I only bother measuring to the nearest mark (0.002), since +/- a couple in the 3rd significant digit isn't going to matter much so far as the alcohol content calculation is concerened.

T.
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lethaldog
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Post by lethaldog »

rwh wrote:You can get an estimate of the final alcohol content from the amout of fermentables you add using a calculator like this brewcraft one:

http://www.brewcraft.com.au/wa.asp?idWe ... etails=172

Of course it's only an estimate because it doesn't take into account the different attenuation ability of different yeast strains.
I have to say although im anti hydrometer (so to speak) i have used this on occassions where i have been curious, experimenting and i have found it accurate to within about .1% :lol:
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Post by Krusty »

Noodles wrote:So am i right in saying the people here who don't use hydrometers don't care what the alc percentage is in their brews? Or is there another way to work it out?
I don't think it really matters, as long as it tastes good, and can get you pissed, it doesn't really matter if it's 4.0% or 10%.
Don't drink and drive.
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lethaldog
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Post by lethaldog »

Krusty wrote:
Noodles wrote:So am i right in saying the people here who don't use hydrometers don't care what the alc percentage is in their brews? Or is there another way to work it out?
I don't think it really matters, as long as it tastes good, and can get you pissed, it doesn't really matter if it's 4.0% or 10%.
Don't drink and drive.
Or drink and operate heavy machinery (unless you're putting together another brew)
-Krusty
Here here :lol: :lol: Drink and be happy ands let the rest sort itself out :lol: :wink:
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Boonie
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Post by Boonie »

lethaldog wrote:
Krusty wrote:
Noodles wrote:So am i right in saying the people here who don't use hydrometers don't care what the alc percentage is in their brews? Or is there another way to work it out?
I don't think it really matters, as long as it tastes good, and can get you pissed, it doesn't really matter if it's 4.0% or 10%.
Don't drink and drive.
Or drink and operate heavy machinery (unless you're putting together another brew)
-Krusty
Here here :lol: :lol: Drink and be happy ands let the rest sort itself out :lol: :wink:
I only use Hydro to ensure my brew is finished. Racking usually sorts that out as Lethaldog says.....but justincase.

As said above, the only thing not to do is have a few HB and drive.

Cheers...............Boonie :wink:
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Earl Hickey
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Post by Earl Hickey »

I generally don't use one for the reasons already stated. Alco content is generally a given (or close enough with K&K) and if you brew in primary for a week, then rack to secondary for a week that's plenty of time for the brew to fully ferment out - no risk of shed grenades.

BUT

Having said that I've had a dry beer, brewed with the dry enzyme, sitting in secondary for 2 weeks after one week in primary and it still seems to be churning along. If I had taken a hydro reading at the time of brewing I'd be in a better position now to work out whether it has fermented out. I've taken a few readings now but I'm really only just guessing that the enzyme will bring the FG fairly low.
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