I put a Coopers lager down last Thursday - with 100g coriander seeds, 3 lime zests and juice, 200g honey, 60g Hallertau, 300g dextrose, 400g maltodextrin, and 500g LME.
I pitched my yeast starter at 24C and it was bubbling beautifiully for 2 days. I went away for the night and came home to find the temp had dropped to about 15C with the cold snap over the weekend in Melbourne, and is now about 17C.
The bubbling had stopped when I got home on Sunday night.
Will the temp fluctuation alter/slow the brew? And when is a good time to rack considering I have never done this before?
Will the the drop in temperatures ruin my brew?
Will the the drop in temperatures ruin my brew?
Wife says all I care about is beer and footy... she's right!
Daron,
I had the same problem with my fist Ale for the season. We had a warm patch I put a brew down then a cold snape and the bubbling stopped after 2 days.
All has come out well in the end though.
The brew temp went down to 14 c for 2 days. I rapped it in a sleeping bag from the start and I think this help to reduce the rapid fulctuation of temps. I racked after 7 days for 5 days then bulk primed as normal. I did bring the bottles into the house to prime which was a constant 20 c. It took a good month to prime properly and I will leave it another 2 months till I dink it. I have tested a stubbie each week to check its progess.
Happy days....
I had the same problem with my fist Ale for the season. We had a warm patch I put a brew down then a cold snape and the bubbling stopped after 2 days.
All has come out well in the end though.
The brew temp went down to 14 c for 2 days. I rapped it in a sleeping bag from the start and I think this help to reduce the rapid fulctuation of temps. I racked after 7 days for 5 days then bulk primed as normal. I did bring the bottles into the house to prime which was a constant 20 c. It took a good month to prime properly and I will leave it another 2 months till I dink it. I have tested a stubbie each week to check its progess.
Happy days....
Cheers
Silk
_____________________________
Now brewing -A Dogger Lager
secondary - empty
new drinking - Kiwi IPA - a bloody ripper !
_____________________________
Silk
_____________________________
Now brewing -A Dogger Lager
secondary - empty
new drinking - Kiwi IPA - a bloody ripper !
_____________________________
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Aussie Claret
- Posts: 655
- Joined: Thursday Sep 01, 2005 11:55 am
- Location: Gold Coast
Hi,
If this is the Coopers original series larger, it comes with an ale yeast and the temperature for fermentation should be kept between 22-26deg, if possible.
If the temperature drops below this, fermentation can slow or stop.
If you are using the Coopers heritage larger or Bavarian lager they come with a Saflager yeast which is better suited to lower fermentation temperatures between 12-18c.
Either way best time to rack is after about 4 days of good fermentation and air lock activity.
If you're using the ale yeast warm the fermenter up a little if you can and rack after 4 days of fermentation.
Personally I don't rack as I've found that there isn't really a nessity. I leave for 1-2 weeks in the primary then bottle, Ive never had a cloudy brew or one with an overly great amount of sediment in the bottle. You will always get a little sediment just down to secondary fermentation in the bottle.
Cheers
AC
If this is the Coopers original series larger, it comes with an ale yeast and the temperature for fermentation should be kept between 22-26deg, if possible.
If the temperature drops below this, fermentation can slow or stop.
If you are using the Coopers heritage larger or Bavarian lager they come with a Saflager yeast which is better suited to lower fermentation temperatures between 12-18c.
Either way best time to rack is after about 4 days of good fermentation and air lock activity.
If you're using the ale yeast warm the fermenter up a little if you can and rack after 4 days of fermentation.
Personally I don't rack as I've found that there isn't really a nessity. I leave for 1-2 weeks in the primary then bottle, Ive never had a cloudy brew or one with an overly great amount of sediment in the bottle. You will always get a little sediment just down to secondary fermentation in the bottle.
Cheers
AC
Hi Aussie,
On the sediment I've had a couple of brews that had a very light sediment that tended to float up immediately on opening. I quite like a cloudy ale but not a larger/Pilsner. I found that it depended totally on the yeast used and the strains of larger yeast. Some seemed to sink really heavily and stay at the bottom for the pour. The yeast supplied with ESB pilsner caused a light floaty sediment which I would definately rack next tme.
Does anyone else have any other reason for this floaty sediment. This is just what I concluded after reading up a bit on http://www.weekendbrewer.com/yeastpage.html
and http://www.beerhunter.com/documents/19133-000255.html this is a great read by the way.
But this is all getting of the track - sorry Daron!
On the sediment I've had a couple of brews that had a very light sediment that tended to float up immediately on opening. I quite like a cloudy ale but not a larger/Pilsner. I found that it depended totally on the yeast used and the strains of larger yeast. Some seemed to sink really heavily and stay at the bottom for the pour. The yeast supplied with ESB pilsner caused a light floaty sediment which I would definately rack next tme.
Does anyone else have any other reason for this floaty sediment. This is just what I concluded after reading up a bit on http://www.weekendbrewer.com/yeastpage.html
and http://www.beerhunter.com/documents/19133-000255.html this is a great read by the way.
But this is all getting of the track - sorry Daron!
Cheers
Silk
_____________________________
Now brewing -A Dogger Lager
secondary - empty
new drinking - Kiwi IPA - a bloody ripper !
_____________________________
Silk
_____________________________
Now brewing -A Dogger Lager
secondary - empty
new drinking - Kiwi IPA - a bloody ripper !
_____________________________
-
Aussie Claret
- Posts: 655
- Joined: Thursday Sep 01, 2005 11:55 am
- Location: Gold Coast
Hey Silk,
I have noticed the same thing, on some brews where you can get floating particles. I'm not quite sure of the reason, but I haven't had this happen to any of my brews only friends.
I use the carbonation drops (Morgans) to prime and they seem to pack all the yeast sediment, tight on the bottom (just how we all like them) sorry getting side tracked, my mind tends to wander off the subject.
Yeh as I was saying the carbonation drops seem to help, not sure if this is just my observation or if they actually help.
And if you boil grain malt up and sparge into the fermenter you sometimes get little particles that can float around, this may be affecting your brews.
Cheers
AC
I have noticed the same thing, on some brews where you can get floating particles. I'm not quite sure of the reason, but I haven't had this happen to any of my brews only friends.
I use the carbonation drops (Morgans) to prime and they seem to pack all the yeast sediment, tight on the bottom (just how we all like them) sorry getting side tracked, my mind tends to wander off the subject.
Yeh as I was saying the carbonation drops seem to help, not sure if this is just my observation or if they actually help.
And if you boil grain malt up and sparge into the fermenter you sometimes get little particles that can float around, this may be affecting your brews.
Cheers
AC
Yeah, it's the original series. I want to rack becuase I've got a stocking full of hops and coriander seeds sitting in it and there's a bit of residue around the fermenter - moer so than normal really. Anyway, I just want to rack it to see how it goes, and see how i go racking.
Cheers.
Cheers.
Wife says all I care about is beer and footy... she's right!
I've found racking great for a clearer beer with less sediment in the bottle.Daron wrote:Yeah, it's the original series. I want to rack becuase I've got a stocking full of hops and coriander seeds sitting in it and there's a bit of residue around the fermenter - moer so than normal really. Anyway, I just want to rack it to see how it goes, and see how i go racking.
Cheers.
I rack mine when the air lock slows down. It's great to stick your head in the secondary and have a good sniff to see how she's all going. I wont be going back!
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undercover1
- Posts: 462
- Joined: Friday Jun 03, 2005 10:28 am
- Location: Melbourne
Racking too soon can leave behind too much yeast, and will mean secondary takes proportionately longer.
You need to give the brew a good start in life, like a sick child or a little kitten.
I tend to go by the gravity, and don't rack until it's at least halfway done.
Brew starts at say 1055. After 9 days in primary, it gets down to 1020.
I rack to secondary, leave it another week or so until it is down below say 1010 and gravity is unchanged for a couple of days, then bottle.
And while we are on the subject, can we all agree that the fermentation that goes on in the bottle is called conditioning, not secondary.
You need to give the brew a good start in life, like a sick child or a little kitten.
I tend to go by the gravity, and don't rack until it's at least halfway done.
Brew starts at say 1055. After 9 days in primary, it gets down to 1020.
I rack to secondary, leave it another week or so until it is down below say 1010 and gravity is unchanged for a couple of days, then bottle.
And while we are on the subject, can we all agree that the fermentation that goes on in the bottle is called conditioning, not secondary.
Salut!
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Aussie Claret
- Posts: 655
- Joined: Thursday Sep 01, 2005 11:55 am
- Location: Gold Coast
Undercover, sorry but disagree
Secondary fermentation happens in the bottle when you prime with sugar. Adding the sugar gives the little bit of yeast thats in there to ferment IE secondary fermentation. Secondary fermentation is only to carbonate the beer. This takes approx 2 weeks in the low-mid 20's.
Maturation - is leaving the beer longer in the bottle to mature and allow taste, aroma, etc to improve.
I think they are two different things. But who cares!
AC
Secondary fermentation happens in the bottle when you prime with sugar. Adding the sugar gives the little bit of yeast thats in there to ferment IE secondary fermentation. Secondary fermentation is only to carbonate the beer. This takes approx 2 weeks in the low-mid 20's.
Maturation - is leaving the beer longer in the bottle to mature and allow taste, aroma, etc to improve.
I think they are two different things. But who cares!
AC
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undercover1
- Posts: 462
- Joined: Friday Jun 03, 2005 10:28 am
- Location: Melbourne
Far be it from me to tell Ray Daniels
http://www.allaboutbeer.com/homebrew/secondar.html
or Michael Jackson
http://www.beerhunter.com/askmichael-200112.html
or John Palmer
http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter8-5.html
they don't know what they are on about.
http://www.allaboutbeer.com/homebrew/secondar.html
or Michael Jackson
http://www.beerhunter.com/askmichael-200112.html
or John Palmer
http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter8-5.html
they don't know what they are on about.
Salut!
Aussie I think you need to find a new HBS if this is the advise they are giving you.
Finings should not be used with sugar as has been said, when they are add the brew is still giving of CO2 so the cap will reform with out help.
Most ale yeasts, coopers included, brew better at 18 - 22 deg not 22 - 26 deg. It will not be sluggish at 18 deg.
Most lager yeast brew best at 8 - 12 deg. Both yeasts can brew at higher temps as you said however these are the upper limits.
And fermentation in the bottle is conditioning ("bottle conditioned beer" such as Coopers), many here refer to it as secondary fermentation.
Finings should not be used with sugar as has been said, when they are add the brew is still giving of CO2 so the cap will reform with out help.
Most ale yeasts, coopers included, brew better at 18 - 22 deg not 22 - 26 deg. It will not be sluggish at 18 deg.
Most lager yeast brew best at 8 - 12 deg. Both yeasts can brew at higher temps as you said however these are the upper limits.
And fermentation in the bottle is conditioning ("bottle conditioned beer" such as Coopers), many here refer to it as secondary fermentation.
Guys, I have just last night put down a Morgans wheat beer, with Master Blend Beer Enhancer, 500g dextrose and Hallertau dry hops, 23 litre amount. I used the Ale yeast from the Morgans kit.
I dropped the yeast and hops at 25degrees, mixed very well, but overnight the temp of the brew seems to have dropped to a little below 21degrees, and fermentation has either stopped or not started.
The Morgans kit says 25 is the perfect temp, but 22-30 is fine. Should I just heat up a bit (my globe has just blown, so will have to wait till tonight to replace that), mix again and see how it goes?
I have read that stopping fermentation is not necessarily a problem - but is that all I really have to do? And is the temp for ale yeast such a finicky thing?
I dropped the yeast and hops at 25degrees, mixed very well, but overnight the temp of the brew seems to have dropped to a little below 21degrees, and fermentation has either stopped or not started.
The Morgans kit says 25 is the perfect temp, but 22-30 is fine. Should I just heat up a bit (my globe has just blown, so will have to wait till tonight to replace that), mix again and see how it goes?
I have read that stopping fermentation is not necessarily a problem - but is that all I really have to do? And is the temp for ale yeast such a finicky thing?
From my experience and reading most ale yeasts will kick along a bit at 21*. If you want to try and kick start fermentation again try warming and stirring. This should get you bubbling along nicely.
Did fermentation start at all? If you took and OG it may be worth taking an SG to see if there was any change. If not it might be worth making up a yeast starter or something similar.
Did fermentation start at all? If you took and OG it may be worth taking an SG to see if there was any change. If not it might be worth making up a yeast starter or something similar.
This drop in temperature is not a problem, in fact it's desirable.
Most ale yeasts perform optimumally at 18-22 degreesC, and best towards the lower end of the scale, if somewhat slower. A good guide to temperatures is the recommendations on the wyeast and whitelabs websites. These guys are yeast specialists. Kit manufacturers recommend a broader (and generally higher) range of temperatures because they don't want to scare off people that live in warmer areas that don't have fermenting fridges or other means of controlling temperatures.
The yeasts will thrive at these higher temperatures, but the higher temperatures will produce off-flavours in the form of more fruity esters (some is good, particularly in wheat beers, but too many is not) and fusel alcohols. If you can keep the temperature down close to 18, you will be rewarded with a nice clean beer.
Tony
Most ale yeasts perform optimumally at 18-22 degreesC, and best towards the lower end of the scale, if somewhat slower. A good guide to temperatures is the recommendations on the wyeast and whitelabs websites. These guys are yeast specialists. Kit manufacturers recommend a broader (and generally higher) range of temperatures because they don't want to scare off people that live in warmer areas that don't have fermenting fridges or other means of controlling temperatures.
The yeasts will thrive at these higher temperatures, but the higher temperatures will produce off-flavours in the form of more fruity esters (some is good, particularly in wheat beers, but too many is not) and fusel alcohols. If you can keep the temperature down close to 18, you will be rewarded with a nice clean beer.
Tony
Boil up a couple of teaspoons of light malt extract in about 2litres of water for 20min. Cool the pot in some cold water in your sink. put liquid in a bottle. Add sachet of yeast when at 25C or below and fit the bottle with ab airlock. Let it bubble away for 24-48 hours then add to your wort,
Presto, a good head start to fermentation.
There's a good guide on this site on how to make it as per above.
enjoy
Presto, a good head start to fermentation.
There's a good guide on this site on how to make it as per above.
enjoy
Wife says all I care about is beer and footy... she's right!
No probs.
From your brief description of temps etc, your brew should be fine, but take an SG reading to confirm.
A yeast starter is simply a yeast that has been activated in a small quantity of wort. Its not strictly necessary with a decent quanity of dry yeast, but can help get fermentation going quickly, because you've bred up a much larger number of cells than you get in the sachet/tube/smack-pack/stubbie/longneck/bottom of last brew). (sorry, it's Friday arvo and I'm hanging out for a beer and got carried away)
If you really think you've got stuck fermentation (check SG readings to confirm), you can repitch more yeast, ideally of the same type you started off with, but for your Morgan's wheat, I'd be inclined to use SafWheat from your HBS.
Tony
From your brief description of temps etc, your brew should be fine, but take an SG reading to confirm.
A yeast starter is simply a yeast that has been activated in a small quantity of wort. Its not strictly necessary with a decent quanity of dry yeast, but can help get fermentation going quickly, because you've bred up a much larger number of cells than you get in the sachet/tube/smack-pack/stubbie/longneck/bottom of last brew). (sorry, it's Friday arvo and I'm hanging out for a beer and got carried away)
If you really think you've got stuck fermentation (check SG readings to confirm), you can repitch more yeast, ideally of the same type you started off with, but for your Morgan's wheat, I'd be inclined to use SafWheat from your HBS.
Tony