HomebrewandBeer.com forum

rotten wrote:I will bottle close to 28, don't keg yet. I had received an e-mail last week saying 1469 was back, better order before it's gone

Thanks for the reminder, I need to do the same.

Chee rs

Hirns

I bought some 1469 from G&G yesterday Looking forward to comparisons of a landlord with that instead of 1028 pushed a bit higher. Top cropping is simply a bonus

chadjaja wrote:I bought some 1469 from G&G yesterday

Same here Chadaja, I was in Melbourne yesterday and couldn't drive past. I probably wont use it for a few weeks, but at least now I have it in the fridge.

It's not on grain and grape website, but if you call them it's in stock. Bought one over phone today and coughed up for postage, but at least I have one.
Cheers

drsmurto wrote:Latest batch is on tap now.

97% Maris Otter (Thomas Fawcetts Floor Malted)
3% Weyermann Carabohemian
Fuggles @ 60 (adjust this to achieve a total of 30 IBU)1g/L EKG @ 20 mins
1g/L Styrian Goldings @ 0 mins (and not the kiwi version which is rubbish)
WY1469

Mash at 66C.

Not sure if this is the best version to date as I have made so many over the past 3 years but if it isn't it's right up there. I certainly love it and it's not going to last long at the current rate of consumption

My next attempt is to see just what the Graham Wheeler hop schedule turns out like (from How to brew your own real ale at home) - Bitter with EKG/styrian goldings and use styrian goldings 1g/L @ 10 mins.

Dr. Smurto

Was planning to make this a second time and have managed to stuff up the beersmith file: When you state to adjust the Fuggles to obtain 30IBU, is 30 the total IBU of the beer that you aim for, or did you meen 30 IBU of Fuggles.

Cheers

Hirns

PS. To all: Crafbrewer has WY1469 back in stock today.

30 IBU is the total IBU, not the Fuggles contribution.

Hmm, reading back i can see how unclear my post was. Poor form for one of the resident grammar nazis......

The way i formulate my recipes in beersmith is to work backwards with the hop additions.

Enter the 0 min addition (aroma)
Enter the 15-20 min addition (flavour)
Use the 60 min addition to adjust the total IBU to the desired number.

Cheers for the heads up, i should grab a fresh pack of WY1469 and WY1026.

Slightly OT, but is 1469 normally a fast fermenter? I smacked a pack yesterday morning and tipped into a 2l starter after work. When I woke this morning the signs are that it has finished, krausen mark 30mm up the sides of the bottles and considerable trub in the bottom. The bottles were in the pantry which should be about 17-18deg overnight (sticky thermo agreed with this.), so it wasn't an overly warm ferment.

Planner

Yes, generally reaches FG in a few days. I've made starters with month old top cropped yeast that has krausened out of a 2L flask despite only using 500mL of starter. It's a crazy beast!

Hope you have read up on top cropping, so easy to get umpteen successive batches this way without resorting to collecting yeastcakes.

drsmurto wrote:Hope you have read up on top cropping, so easy to get umpteen successive batches this way without resorting to collecting yeastcakes.

I have read up on top cropping (including earlier posts in this thread), but yet to try it. To date I have had success with re-using yeastcakes and this was to be the plan for this yeast. I will probably give cropping a go, but still collect yeastcake in case it all goes pear shaped.

Will bottle the TTL either tonight or tomorrow, used WY1469 for the first time and found a very different ferment than I expected.
First 5-7 days all looked normal, top cropped at about 4 days for future use.
After the 7th day I expected the krausen to start to disappear, but it didn't. It has stayed on top as a solid raft (been in primary for 3 weeks now).
The beer looks and tastes normal from the hydro tube, so I'm not too worried. Also it seems to have fermented out further than expected, 1047 - 1008. I haven't had a brew drop below 1010 since I moved from using BE2.

I had the same thing happen with my first TTL with that yeast planner. I racked mine Sunday after brewing number 2, pitched yeast cake yesterday and it's fermenting away nicely. I asked about the 'creamy krausen' that won't go away elsewhere and it sounds as though it's normal. Doesn't it taste and smell awesome?

Hi Lads,
I just ordered some from G&G,

So are you waiting for the krausen to subside or just racking after a few weeks ?

or just going by hydro readings until its complete and disregard the krausen ?

cheers to all,
cant wait to try this one...

Grog

Grog wrote:So are you waiting for the krausen to subside or just racking after a few weeks ?

or just going by hydro readings until its complete and disregard the krausen ?

Grog

I don't rack, I wait for 2-3 weeks, depending on levels of enthusiasm, and then bottle. I do take hydro readings at about 2 weeks and then again on bottling day (more for a sneaky taste, than anything else). By then the krausen had well and truly gone on all other brews.

Rotten, it did taste quite good from the sample. I can see this becoming a regular, at $7 from the bottlo it's getting to be expensive drinking. I will have a search for your "creamy krasuen" question now. For a few weeks, I was just skimming the new posts.

Planner

Edit: Found your post Rotten, you had it well hidden, search produced nothing. Searched AHB and found it. Yep that pic looks exactly like the inside of my fermenter.

Planner search for '1469 wyyeast how is yours goin?'

I racked mine after 8 days, hydro reading settled @ 1012, was expecting 1013. Didn't wait for krausen to drop, by all accounts you would be waiting forever. Will leave it racked and ccing for another 3-4 days before bottling.
Cheers

Dont wait for the krausen to drop, use the hydro readings to tell if its done.

Wy1469 will happily sit at the top of your wort till the end of time itself!

Tossing up forking out the $ for a fresh smackpack of WY149 or taking advantage of a new HBS opening up in SA to grab a vial of WLP037 - Yorkshire Square Ale for $11. Linky

Side by side comparison.......

Thanks Lads,

I'll knock one of these up, using the recipe posted early in this thread, unless any of you have changed it a bit and think you might have a better starting recipe.

I'm looking to do a lower alc version, not after big ABV.

Cheers,
Grog

drsmurto wrote:Dont wait for the krausen to drop, use the hydro readings to tell if its done.

Wy1469 will happily sit at the top of your wort till the end of time itself!

Wasn't waiting for the krausen to drop, was going to bottle tonight, but apperently now going out for anniversary. So bottling tomorrow night.

Grog wrote:Thanks Lads,

I'll knock one of these up, using the recipe posted early in this thread, unless any of you have changed it a bit and think you might have a better starting recipe.

I'm looking to do a lower alc version, not after big ABV.

Cheers,
Grog

The standard Landlord is 4.1% so in-between a mid and a full strength compared to standard aussie beers.

If you want to drop the abv i would increase the mash temp, up the crystal % and lower the IBU.

cheers Doc -
The only bit of that I understand is the raising the mash temp, am slowly getting there
(Not that 'there' is actually a final level you can get to with brewing

Increase the % of crystal in your grainbill to give you extra body from unfermentable sugars. Increasing the mash tmp does the same thing but i do both.

The lower the OG, the lower the FG and the thinner the resulting beer. You may want a thin beer and if so, ignore this. By adding more crystal and increasing the mash temp you are attempting to counteract the lowering of the FG. The last 'light' beer i made had an OG of 1.036 and still finished at 1.014 so retained a reasonable amount of body.

Since you are lowering the OG and hence the amount of malt you need to lower the IBU to keep the balance. If you don't it will be too bitter.