Boonies LCPA recipe

[smiggins55]

I'm going to put this recipe down tommorrow but will dry hop with 15grams of
halletau as they have nice citrus overtones.Boonie hope you don't mind a bit of
experimenting with the recipe

[LEGO]

Hi Everyone,
Honestly, thanks for all the information and tips provided over these threads, it's helped me move to using pellet hops instead of the 'tea bags' and I've learned a lot.
I bottled this one last week, followed Boonie's original recipe, and swapped the chinook and cascade for dry hop, as recommended by the good Doctor!

Certainly smelt amazing at bottling, and the wort had that LCPA taste already. It's only been in the bottle for 1 week, so had better drink some other brews to stop me cracking one early!! Better wait until 2 weeks at least until I cave in to temptation. From all the previous posts and almost cult following this recipe has, looks like this will be one of my stables.

So on that note, due to planning on making this over and over again down the track, just wondering if anyone has substituted the base kit of the Morgan's Stockman's Draught, with a more generic cheaper base kit? (Obvioulsy though still keeping the 1.75kg LME). I've read in other posts that some have used the Cooper's Pale Ale kits instead, some the Real Ale kits, and some have replaced the kit with a 2nd LME can.
BUT! has anyone compared how these have turned out versus using the original Morgan's Stockman's? That includes the results in bitterness and the creamy head, as a lot of you have said Boonie's recipe provides a good solid 'frothin'.

Another quick question, being the first time I've used pellet hops, I noticed the wort had the definite LCPA taste first up when tasting, but the after-taste (although still great) was almost 'grassy' and 'green'. Does the hop flavour mellow at all after a month or so in the bottle compared to the original wort taste? Just wondering what changes to expect from the original wort taste, so I can start another batch soon, and tweak the hops if required.

[wrighty]

Didnt set out to make lcpa but i just cracked a bottle of this after 4 days in .Smooth velvety mouthfeel with a good pronounced citrus wack
will leave another 2 weeks .

1.5kg Morgans llme
600g spray dried wheat malt
200g wild flower honey
200g brown sugar

50g hallertau
25g fuggles
25g casdade

6lt boil sdwm
25g hallertau 40 min
25g hallertau 15 min
25g fuggles 10 min
25g cascade dry hop

sugar,honey @5min 1.5llme@flameout

Strained into fermentor added cascade top up 21 lt .
pitched rehydrated cooper ,morgans ale yeasts 7g each (let it grow on some malt o/night)@18c
into brew fridge @16 10 day primary crash chilled ,geatined ,bottled day after.

Got to say i wasnt the greatest fan of lcpa but this brew on first taste leaves it in the shade imho

[squirt in the turns]

Hi all, figured it's about time to see what all the buzz is about with this recipe!

I'll be sticking close to Boonie's original formula, if I can get the ingredients. Just a few questions (I've had a trawl through all 11 pages of this thread, so hopefully won't be asking anything that's been asked too many times already):

1) Will this brew benefit from steeping grains? I think it was Boonie that commented that it didn't seem to improve it much on one of his batches. If I was to try this, what grains would be suitable (regular old crystal?) And would it be advisable to up the hops in the boil to give a bit more bittering to compensate for the sweet grain?

2) Is there any place for Northern Brewer hops in this recipe, either for the purpose of the aforementioned bittering, or as a substitute for the Cascade, Cluster or Chinook? I've got a load I want to use up. I'm assuming the Chinook is really integral to nailing a LCPA clone, although my main aim is to get a really nice beer, not necessarily an exact copy. As I'll be dry hopping when I rack after 1 or 2 weeks in primary, I can always order Chinook from Craft Brewer to arrive in time.

3) I'll get the US-05 if I can. I know that my local HBS always has S-04 – will this change it to a completely different style? I’ve got some Munton’s Premium ale yeast in the fridge – would that be better than S-04?

4) The HBS only has unbranded liquid malt in plastic tubs, not cans (choice of pale, medium and dark). I’ve never asked him where he gets it. Is this a bit suss? Is the brand of unhopped goo important? I’ve not had problems with it in the past, although the colour is always quite dark, even with the pale stuff.

5) Chucking the kit yeast into the boil as nutrient: I’d read on here about using yeast to feed other yeast, but I’d always thought it was a technique for those who breed and culture starters, something I’m yet to dabble in. Does it affect the flavour or add a lot more sediment? Is it pretty much always a good idea regardless of style?

Sorry for the essay guys,
Cheers!

[chadjaja]

I wouldn't use 04 as it favours the malt rather than the hops flavours. A good APA yeast is vital imo for this beer to turn out the way you want it too.

I say just order all the ingredients you need online even if it means you have to wait just a day or two. I use Colin athttp://www.brewerschoice.net.au/index.htm and he would ship it to you in one day. He also carries the same stockmans draught kit that Boonies recipie uses and the extra pale liquid malt that isn't always easy to find. I just ordered the same stuff off him two weeks ago and kegged this beer yesterday for the second time in 2 months!

This is my fav beer i've made so far. Boonie is a legend! I'm not messing with it at all as its perfect the way it is.

[warra48]

I'll try to answer your questions, but remember, when it comes to commenting on recipes, it boils down to personal taste. What works for you might not necessarily suit others.

1. I think about 100 gr of medium or light crystal would be fine. I wouldn't go any higher, as this is an American Pale Ale style, and it is usually lighter bodied than English Pale Ales. You could up the hops a bit, if you want, but it's not strictly necessary, unless you love your beers hoppy bitter.

2. Chinook is a good bittering hop, and it gives the beer a good whack of the typical American citrus fruit hop character, particularly if you dry hop with it. Northern Brewer is also a very good bittering hop, a little lower in AA%, but with a more neutral character, but it still has a nice flavour. If you do use Northern Brewer, I'd be inclined to up your Cascade a little to compensate.
When I made this recipe in 2007, I used Chinook to dry hop, so you'll be fine with that. Alternatively, Cascade is also brilliant for dry hopping.
I now brew AG, and in my standard APA recipe I only use Northern Brewer and Cascade hops.

3. US05 is a definite requirement for this style. It allows the hop character to shine through, without esters etc which you can get from the English Ale yeasts such us S04. Muntons Premium Ale yeast is also designed for English style beers, so not recommended for this recipe, but it's a good yeast.

4. You can use the HB shop unhopped goo. I'd choose the Pale one. It won't make much difference, if any.

5. Yes, you can chuck the kit yeast into the boil. I've done it, and it doesn't really give anything much in the way of extra sediment. It settles out in the fermenter, in any event. It won't affect the flavour.

[squirt in the turns]

Thanks chadjaja and warra for your comments. I was thinking I'd try to get to the HB shop last Saturday, not thinking that it would of course be closed on ANZAC Day. So I'll order everything from either Craftbrewer or Brewerschoice. I'd rather get everything from one place, and as chad points out, they sell the kits, but don't have Cluster hops.

So, my question now is whether there is a suitable substitution for cluster in this recipe? Otherwise, I guess I'll order the hops and yeast from Ross and see if I can get the can and goo from the HBS.

[chadjaja]

Well you only need 12g of cluster and Col at brewers sells them in the small 15g bags. You could get everything you need in the one go. I'll spruik Col till I"m blue in the face quite simply due to his customer service and he being regional small store in the fire effected region that has been hit so hard. I can't help him much more than trying to get as many customers thru reference than I can

I tasted my LCPA that was kegged on Thursay and carbed for two days at 230kpa. Certainly could do with more than 5 days cold conditioning LOL I hope I've simply replicated the first batch I made as it was amber gold!

[chadjaja]

Well I'm onto the second keg of this and the first was purely superb. This batch is a bit lacking in the hops punch and at the time i didnt' have the scales I have now and I think the hops amounts were slightly down.

Planning on dry hopping it in the keg. I have a stainless steel teal ball I plan on boiling for 15 mins along with a marble to weigh it down. I guess I should use cluster to dry hop as thats what was used in secondary. I don't have any though but I have plenty of cascade. Not sure if I should use that though.

I also plan on using fishing line so I can pull it out after some time as I've heard dry hopping too long in the keg will simply lead to too many grassy flavours.

Advice guys on my first dry hop kegging.

[tazman67]

No Cluster in LCPA for dry hop. They use Cascade flowers in a hop back. So dry hop with Cascade or Chinook...maybe Centenial IMHO
O/T...Is it just me...or do other brewers get less "grassy notes" off flowers than pellets.

[RUM57L]

Rightio ..

I've never boiled anything up and added to a brew before, always just disolved in hot water inside the fermenter.

So from what i've read can someone check i'll be heading in the right direction..

1. Bring to the boil about 3 litres water.
2. Pour in the Pale Malt Extract Liquid.
3. Pour in the Morgans can
4. Add Cascade Pellets and boil for 15mins? (or is it 15 mins after the Malt has been boiling?)
5. Add Cluster .. is this 15 mins after the last or at the same time and for the same duration?

Yea... so i guess you'll be able to see where i get confused.. once i do it once i'll be ok.

up to 23L i guess also?

[Planner]

Rightio ..

I've never boiled anything up and added to a brew before, always just disolved in hot water inside the fermenter.

So from what i've read can someone check i'll be heading in the right direction..

1. Bring to the boil about 3 litres water.
2. Pour in the Pale Malt Extract Liquid.
3. Pour in the Morgans can
4. Add Cascade Pellets and boil for 15mins? (or is it 15 mins after the Malt has been boiling?)
5. Add Cluster .. is this 15 mins after the last or at the same time and for the same duration?

Yea... so i guess you'll be able to see where i get confused.. once i do it once i'll be ok.

up to 23L i guess also?

RUM57L

1. Yep
2. Yep sort-of, if using dry extract I would use about 300g, using liquid (as you are) gets messy adding part tins, so tip it all in.
3. Not yet, see step 8
4. Add cascade once above is boiling and boil for 15mins (hop times are specified from finish of boil)
5. Add cluster with cascade (boil for 15mins)
6. Stir on and off for 15 mins, don't walk off to fridge to get beer or you'll be cleaning cooked malt off the stove for the next hour. Turn off heat.
7. Add balance of extract if you didn't use it all in step 2
8. Add can either into hot wort or into fermenter later (your chioce)
9. Cool pot in sink of water (now is good time to open beer), add to fermenter and pitch as usual.
10. Dry hop with chinook when ferment is nearly done (I've been doing at 7 days lately)

Haven't re-read all 11 pages again, but I think Boonie brewed 23l. Again your choice, either bigger volume of tasty beer, or slightly smaller volume of tastier beer. My last version was 20l and was better.

Give it a go, you won't be disappointed.

Planner

[RUM57L]

Thanks Planner for the help and clarification on this one.

Point 9 is probally the most important wouldnt you say lol!

Appreciate it, you've helped me understand the timing point better now.

Probally 2 weeks away from putting this one down but i'm keen to start getting prepared, busy work schedule doesnt help.

[Planner]

Point 9 is probally the most important wouldnt you say lol!

So right. I'm speaking from experience there. I walked away mid-boil to get a beer (beer fridge is in other shed), and came back to a frothing mess of malt. Lucky it was outside on the camping stove, SWMBO would not have been impressed if inside.

[RUM57L]

SWMBO .. well your not alone.. i've havent reached that point but already have been put under direct instruction that i'll be doing brews on the portable camping stove.

[rotten]

My family can't wait for me to brew in shed, they hate the smells that I can't get enough of. Has helped brewery shed renovations move substantially. Can't wait!
Cheers

[earle]

My wife loves the smell of boiling malt but hates it once I add the hops, for that reason also doesn't like beer. If you could make beer without hops or yeast she would be happy.

[RUM57L]

Thats a good point Rotten,

A move to reno my bar room off the garage could be on the cards, although this also has to be passed by the minister of finance

[speedie]

earl i think they call that brew horlicks

[Weatherby]

Brought all the ingredients except the chinook during the week, and that is coming on wednesday, looking forward to this one. My biggest saucepan is only about 2.5l so was going to do 1l water plus the 1.5kg pale malt can. Is that ratio of malt/water likey to upset the recipe much?

Enjoyed the last 11pages btw