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Sorry Kevnlis, could you repost your AG into a mini mash/partial version?

I've only ever done one mini mash so I would need to know how much/what types of malt to sub and what mashes with what.

That would help because I'm interested in both doing this recipe and practicing my mashes by doing a few partials, eventually engaging in my first AG early next year.

Cheers mate.

Problem is, like I said, I am not sure if the Munich I can be mashed. I looked at Beersmith and it says it can be used as a base grain so I will assume it is alright.

If I were to do a minimash I would use:

4.0 kg LWME
1.5 kg LLME

The rest of the grain and hops as specified in the recipe.

Mash the grains in 8L of water at 65C for at least 60 min (90 if you can). Strain into your boiling pot and top up with 20L of water and add the rest of the extract, boil for 90 and add the hops as required. Cool to pitching temp and proceed as per normal.

Not sure if that is all you need? Maybe I am missing something?

Kevnlis wrote:Problem is, like I said, I am not sure if the Munich I can be mashed. I looked at Beersmith and it says it can be used as a base grain so I will assume it is alright.

If I were to do a minimash I would use:

4.0 kg LWME
1.5 kg LLME

The rest of the grain and hops as specified in the recipe.

Mash the grains in 8L of water at 65C for at least 60 min (90 if you can). Strain into your boiling pot and top up with 20L of water and add the rest of the extract, boil for 90 and add the hops as required. Cool to pitching temp and proceed as per normal.

Not sure if that is all you need? Maybe I am missing something?

Perfect! Thanks mate!

Alright, here is my slightly modified recipe. If I have time I will get ingredients tomorrow, so any last minute comments are welcome.

2 x 1.7kg Wheat Liquid Extract Tins
250g Carapils
20g Hallertauer (60 mins)
20g Hallertauer (15 mins)
20g Coriander Seeds (15 mins)
1 Orange Rind (15 mins)
Either Wyeast Labs #3068 yeast
OR WB-06

I didn't want to over do the corriander, so i moved it to 20g, and not 40g. A friend did a Hoegaarden recipe with only 18g (I think), and I wouldn't want much more than that. I'm happy with 20g bittering hops. Up to date, I haven't boiled any hops for bittering, so I'm not worried.

sounds good, but you seem to be wanting to make two varieties of beer in the one brew. Personally, I wouldnt even bother with the corriander or orange... If you want a hefewiezen, dont put it in... if you want a hoegaarden, put it in, but use the 3944 beligan wit yeast...

thats just my suggestion.

James is correct.

Also something like Golding, Saaz, or Tettnang might be better than Hallertau.

I would probably go:

30g Tettnang 60 min
10g Saaz 10 min
10g EK Goldings dry
30g Cracked Corriander Seed
20g Mandarine peel (scrub as much white stuff off the inside as possible, then dry well in a sunny place)
WLP400 or WLP410 if you can find it.

Add the Mandarine and Corriander with the sazz.

Yea, I'll scrap the coriander and orange. I'm mostly avoiding doing a hoegaarden, as the price of the ingredients is way to high. Im thinking of using both Hallertauer and Tettnang hops. How does this sound? (Im using the 12.5g lots, as I think brewcraft sells the pellets in 25g bags)

2 x 1.7kg Wheat Liquid Extract Tins
250g Carapils
12.5g Hallertauer (60 mins)
12.5g Tettnang (60 mins)
12.5g Hallertauer (15 mins)
12.5g Tettnang (15 mins)
Either Wyeast Labs #3068 yeast
OR WB-06

sounds ok, my beersmith has expired so i cant give you the IBUs of the brew that you'll be doing,maybe someone else can help with that. Maybe you could just leave the tettenanger for the final 15 or 5 minute addtion as it is mainly used for flavour and aroma, and use the hallertau for the bittering.

Just make sure that the hallertau is the german variety, as the NZ one is quite alot higher in AA%.. I was caught out when i first started brewing.. i think the hops from brewcraft is the NZ type... but i might be wrong...

I think for Hefewiezens, you want a final IBU of about 25... so you might want to add all 25g at 60 minutes, and just add the 12.5g tettenager at 15 and 12.5g at 5 minutes... the hallertau itself should give 15IBUs... then you might get another 5 or 6 from the tettenager....

Tim... wrote:Yea, I'll scrap the coriander and orange. I'm mostly avoiding doing a hoegaarden, as the price of the ingredients is way to high.

Way too high?? Two oranges (or mandarins) + bag of corriander seeds is about $2.00 !!

Or 8c per longneck !

pixelboy wrote:

Tim... wrote:Yea, I'll scrap the coriander and orange. I'm mostly avoiding doing a hoegaarden, as the price of the ingredients is way to high.

Way too high?? Two oranges (or mandarins) + bag of corriander seeds is about $2.00 !!

Or 8c per longneck !

Oh, I was reading in the hoegaarden thread, and someone mentioned it costing up to 60 bucks :O (I think the yeast may have been the main culprit. $15 or something)

There is a really good hefeweizen recipe on the Grain & Grape site. I'm drinking it now and its a very satisfactory result. I used the Wyeast 3333 Bavarian wheat yeast. It certainly has the banana and clove notes in the flavour. I went the 3333 cause it's a high flocculating yeast compared to the other wheat yeasts. I went with 16g of Perle for 60 minutes. I was thinking of dry hopping some hallertau at racking-off but elected not too in the end as I think this style shouldn't have too much hop aroma.

Grain n Grape has 3 options, you can go all extract, partial, or AG. I went the partial route - it was my first crack at a partial.

1.5Kg LDME
1.5Kg liquid wheat extract
.7Kg Pilsener malt
.3Kg Crystal wheat
16g Perle for 60 min
Wyeast 3333

Brought grains slowly to 66C then steeped for 30 min.
Removed the grain, brought to a boil, added the hops. Boil for 60 min.
Added malt extract at flameout. OG 1054, FG 1015

An easy recipe if you want to have a go at a partial.

Tim... wrote:Oh, I was reading in the hoegaarden thread, and someone mentioned it costing up to 60 bucks :O (I think the yeast may have been the main culprit. $15 or something)

It can if you let it get outta hand, I do a simplified version that costs about $30 - $35


But there's plenty of other good options here ... so many good recipies on this site and so little time to drink em all

Ended up buying the following:

Brewcraft Bavarian Wheat Tin
1kg Liquid Wheat Extract
500g Dry Wheat Extract
250g Carapils
25g Hallertauer
25g Tettnang
WB-06 Yeast

James L wrote:I think for Hefewiezens, you want a final IBU of about 25... so you might want to add all 25g at 60 minutes, and just add the 12.5g tettenager at 15 and 12.5g at 5 minutes... the hallertau itself should give 15IBUs... then you might get another 5 or 6 from the tettenager....

Are you sure I shout add 12.5g of the tettnang at 5 mins? I thought the hefeweizens aroma should be coming from the yeast (when fermented at around 22C)? I'm thinking maybe 25g Hallertauer at 60 mins, 12.5g Tettnang at 30 mins, and 12.5g Tettnang at 15 mins.

you will still get that aroma from the yeast at 22C, you could even leave out the 5 min addition if you wish, as it wont add too much to the bitterness anyways if you're worried... but i wouldnt really worry about the 30 min addition, just stick with the 60 min and the 15 min... but add 15g instead of 12.5 at 15mins... to compensate.

I must admit, that i never added hops at 5 mins, but i did dry hop the beer in secondary with tettenager, and the banana aroma was still very strong. lovely...

James L wrote:you will still get that aroma from the yeast at 22C, you could even leave out the 5 min addition if you wish, as it wont add too much to the bitterness anyways if you're worried... but i wouldnt really worry about the 30 min addition, just stick with the 60 min and the 15 min... but add 15g instead of 12.5 at 15mins... to compensate.

I must admit, that i never added hops at 5 mins, but i did dry hop the beer in secondary with tettenager, and the banana aroma was still very strong. lovely...

Yea, I just found out the Tettnanger is an aroma hop, so i retract what I said before. I'm going to stick with what you said originally. (12.5g Tett @ 15 mins, 12.5g Tett @ 5 mins) Thanks.

timmy wrote:tim,

I mainly rack to reduce the amount of sediment in the bottle - I'm not too bothered about the appearance apart from that. If you don't want to rack then that's OK - you might just want to leave the brew in the primary for longer.

Hmm, I have decided now that racking is the way to go. I just tried my latest brew (an APA, (LCPA attempt)), and it has this flavour that bugs me that is also present in my previous 2 brews. I have decided its the yeast, and racking is my solution. I'm sure the wheat beer will still turn out with a nice colour, but after all whats more important in a beer? a good taste or good colour? Thats what I though

So now I'm gonna have to get my hands on a second fermenter, and do some racking research.

What's the flavour?

rwh wrote:What's the flavour?

I'm bad at explaining these flavours. In one of my beers, I originally thought it was over carbonated. But then changed my mind, and decided its a yeast flavour. I'll see if I can get a friend to try and explain it.

On another note, if I bought a 60L fermenter (using a 30L atm) and used that for primary, and 30L for secondary, would I have any issues doing 21L brews in the 60L fermenter, ie oxidation? I thought I may as well get a 60L now, as at some point I will probably stop doing 21L brew.

Not an issue during early fermentation - yeast will chew up the O2 left in the space. CO2 then replaces the O2 in that space.

You'll only have an issue if you rack to a secondary with too much space between your brew and the lid - that's when oxidisation can occur.

That's why you shouldn't leave too much space when bottling - keep it to an inch or so.