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Newbie here - set up a CPA and BE2, pitched yeast on Sunday last (16/3) and OG was 1040 and wort temp 31deg. Today (21/03) I have 1008 and 28deg, slight pressure with the airlock bubbling every 20 minutes or so. Tasted the brew at testing the SG today and can still taste distinct sweetness.

Let it go a few more days?

I'd let it go a bit. Wait until you get 2 identical hydro readings.

I've had beers that bottle sweet, then lose it in the bottle.

Thanks for that Chris, I have read heaps here this afternoon and learnt a bucketload - I was under the impression I had to bottle as soon as the yeast was done, but have discovered otherwise - so I don't have to worry so much about timing.

I think also that sweetness is more noticable at room temperature.

Once you bottle, the chilled beer should taste less sweet, and the carbonation will also cut back on it.

sweetness gets balanced out by hop bitterness. could it be moreso lacking in bitterness?

Unusual for a CPA to be sweet.

Ben78 wrote: and wort temp 31deg. Today (21/03) I have 1008 and 28deg

Try and get your temps down too Ben if possible

Chris wrote:I'd let it go a bit. Wait until you get 2 identical hydro readings.

Best bit of advice you can give a new H'Brewer.

Boonie wrote: Try and get your temps down too Ben if possible

Yeah that'd be nice...

I want to have a crack at a lager, forunately I have an old fridge that on it's 'least cool' position holds a steady 12 deg which from what I read is about as close to perfect as I can get. Maybe a temp controller to do the ales is the next step...

I just use an 'indoor/outdoor' thermometer. Works well enough in conjunction with adjusting the fridge's temp controller. Granted, a fridgemate is on my 'to do' list.

Just checked it again and the reading is closer to 1010??? Taste test and it seems to be pretty good sweetness all but gone.

Still getting the odd bubbling.

If I bottle now (tomorrow) will I get bottle bombs as the system still seems to be operating (ie the barrel is pressurised)?

2 identical hydrometer readings is what you need to look for. Don't consider bottling until you get that.

Even once you get two identical readings Ben you could leave it a few days to be sure that fermentation has finished but also to let the yeast settle a bit so you bottle a clearer brew.

Or rack!!!

Newbie also

What are the downside to bottling 2 early. My first batch (Munich Lager)I only checked the SG when finished and it read 1010 and then bottled, the beer tasted fine (good luck rather then good management I think). 2nd brew I checked twice and it went from 1010 to 1008 and then I bottle it I thought close enough (Coopers Sparkling Ale).

Am I likely to expected explosions etc.

Cods

There really isn't a "close enough" when it comes to bottling beer. You do need to be very careful to make sure it has fermented out completely. Exploding bottles are VERY dangerous.

Having said that, 1008 is probably ok for most all-malt brews, but you can't really afford to generalise. What is good for one brew is not necessarily good for another. Your hydro is your best friend. Racking a brew will also generally ensure that a brew will ferment out completely.

I can't say for sure that your beer has or hasn't finished fermenting. I hope it has, but next time, you will want to make sure.

Chris wrote:Or rack!!!

ie transfer the 'beer' to another fermenter (that has been sanitised etc etc) and let it sit for a week or so (sealed or with a airlock?)

Syphon the beer across leaving the sediment in the first fermenter?

I'm anti-airlock, so therefore: with gladwrap over the top.

And yes. You leave the yeast cake behind.

Any suggestions for a hops to add?

I really enjoy that very floral flavour that you get from some 'premium' beers - is this what dry hopping achieves?

I bought a baggie of cascade to try.

Cascade is a good hop to dry hop with. It should come out citrusy and a bit floral.

What are the downside to bottling 2 early.

Apart from exploding bottles you may also get over-carbonated beer which may mean different/less flavour.