homebrewandbeer.com

I'd be very grateful if more learned brewers could help me with the following questions that seem hard to find an answer to in these pages:

1. I need to buy a new fermenter: does it matter if I get a 25 or 30 ltr carbuoy or pail if I plan to make standard sized 23 ltr brews. Does size matter wrt. the size of brews? Also, why a pail as an alternative?

2. What is racking?

3. Does bulk priming really have benefits?

4. What temperatures does an ale or lager need to be brewed at; I had assummed that a general temp. of 18-25ish was fine for both. Any special times of the year for them to be brewed at?

5. Do porters need sugar/dextrose/enhancers to brew? I assume not, also would they then need carb. drops or primming sugar?

6. What are 500g malts used for> Do you just stick one in on top of other ingerdients, I'd think that might give you too much goo.

7. Im interested in brewing the Cascade Mahogany Porter, any suggested extras I might add or substitute?

As you can gather, I know precious little about HB and would love to know more.

ignisdraconis wrote:1. I need to buy a new fermenter: does it matter if I get a 25 or 30 ltr carbuoy or pail if I plan to make standard sized 23 ltr brews. Does size matter wrt. the size of brews? Also, why a pail as an alternative?

If you are getting a 2nd one for a secondary fermenter to rack into, a smaller one is fine.

the carboy/pail argument rages on, basically it's personal preference. Pails are easier to clean & seal better, though I've heard the threads can strip out easier compared to carboys. 6 to one, half a dozen to the other.

*awaits argument*

ignisdraconis wrote:2. What is racking?

Transferring the beer mid-ferment to a secondary fermenter to get it off the yeast cake, aka Trub. It's almost a religion here, but some people reckon it's an infection risk & doesn't do much anyway.

In my limited experience with racking beer I haven't notice a clarity or taste improvement, though I usually leave beer in the primary at least 2 weeks anyway even though it ferments in about 5-6 days up here - that extra time seems to clear is just as well.

ignisdraconis wrote:3. Does bulk priming really have benefits?

Can't help you here, it's supposed to be a labour saving practice I believe & also can give more even carbonation if you don't stuff it up, but if you do stuff it up you could make it worse. I use a measure & prime per bottle.

ignisdraconis wrote:4. What temperatures does an ale or lager need to be brewed at; I had assummed that a general temp. of 18-25ish was fine for both. Any special times of the year for them to be brewed at?

Ale is 18-22 ideally, lager is 8-12 ideally. Hotter with either style can cause off flavors. With a brewing thermostat fridge you can do whatever, whenever - though the old saying is brew ales in summer to drink in winter & lagers in winter to drink in summer, aging both types for about 6 months.

ignisdraconis wrote:5. Do porters need sugar/dextrose/enhancers to brew? I assume not, also would they then need carb. drops or primming sugar?

Depends on the recipie doesn't it? If bottling yes they will still need priming one way or another.

ignisdraconis wrote:6. What are 500g malts used for> Do you just stick one in on top of other ingerdients, I'd think that might give you too much goo.

malt gives more body AND adds some sweetness to the brew, any more than about 500gm will unbalance most kits & require extra hops (IME)

ignisdraconis wrote:7. Im interested in brewing the Cascade Mahogany Porter, any suggested extras I might add or substitute?

Not my thing so I'll leave it to someone else.

Read the sticky "Simple things that make Home brew better" and it would have answered most of this

Ash wrote: *awaits argument*

You wait 'til he asks about the use of hydrometers!!!!!

Racking? Towards the end of the brew. I used to leave mine in for a couple of weeks in primary....lovely clear beer but started tasting like Band aids! Racking has stopped that, no infections AND clear beers! I'm a fan of racking.

Benefits of bulk priming? It's HEAPS farken quicker than measuring out into each bottle AND each bottle's carbonation is the same. If you've got it right they're all okay. If you've stuffed it they're all buggered! I'm a fan of bulk priming.

Temps? High temps generally in my experience result in 'fruity/yeasty' flavours. I can't explain it any better than that. In winter I brew like a mad thing, mostly pilsners out in the shed because the average temp out there in the wort is about 8 degrees, summer I brew bugger all but stouts and that's inside where the ambient temp sits about 24. I'm a fan of winter brewing!

I also give my vote for bulk priming, great time saver and much more control. There is a good online calculator for working out how much sugar for whatever style beer you are making here:

http://www.geocities.com/lesjudith/Alco ... lator.html

"1kg of Dry Malt" - Do you mean the stuff in a can or a bag? Also, why would others suggest "LDME" - which I assume is light dry malt extract goo from a can, as oppossed to Dry Malt?

Also, how are the hops prepared and added?

Another one, I assume it needs priming, even though its not a lager. Any preferable amount of water, I have read 18l and 22l?

And finally....I have read of one brew taking a month before being ready to bottle, is this right? What hydrometer reading would suffice?

Thanks guys, you are legends! One day I hope to give you advise/tips, one day......

See the other thread of yours for a few insights.

ignisdraconis, please don't cross post.

terribly sorry ... I posted in the wrong subject heading, more relevant in the other