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Ok so I was thinking of doing a kind of partial mini BIAB. Not sure about the amount of water I need to add.

Here is the recipe;

1.50 kg Pale Liquid Extract (15.8 EBC) Extract 51.72 %
0.70 kg Pale Malt, Maris Otter (5.9 EBC) Grain 24.14 %
0.30 kg Carared (39.4 EBC) Grain 10.34 %
0.25 kg Cara-Pils/Dextrine (3.9 EBC) Grain 8.62 %
0.15 kg Chocolate Malt (689.5 EBC) Grain 5.17 %
20.00 gm Amarillo Gold [8.50 %] (30 min) Hops 13.5 IBU
20.00 gm Cascade [5.50 %] (15 min) Hops 5.6 IBU
15.00 gm Cascade [5.50 %] (0 min) (Aroma Hop-Steep) Hops -
1.00 items Whirlfloc Tablet (Boil 15.0 min) Misc
1 Pkgs P10 Sierra (Proculture) Yeast-Ale

20L batch

I want to mash in 5L of water so I setup the mashing profile like this;

Mash Name: Temperature Mash, 1 Step, Medium Body Total Grain Weight: 1.40 kg
Sparge Water: 1.40 L Grain Temperature: 22.2 C
Sparge Temperature: 75.6 C TunTemperature: 22.2 C
Adjust Temp for Equipment: TRUE Mash PH: 5.4 PH

Temperature Mash, 1 Step, Medium Body Step Time Name Description Step Temp
60 min Saccharification Add 5.00 L of water at 72.6 C 67.8 C
10 min Mash Out Heat to 75.6 C over 10 min 75.6 C

1st question: Is this correct?

2nd question: Will this total of 6.4L after sparging give me my 5L boil by taking into account what the grains would absorb? (1.4L)

3rd question: I am I way offline and should stick to extract?

Cheers, Mat.

I would mash in with a grain to water ratio of no more than 1:3. I.e - 1kg of grain, 3L of water.

I would also sparge with at least the same amount as you mash in with otherwise your efficiency will be woeful.

So in your case - 1.4kg of grain, 4.2L of water. The grain will absorb ~1.1L per kg so you should get ~2.6-2.7L of first runnings. Sparge with another 4L of water to give you ~6.5L of wort.

You will lose a small amount to trub and some to evaporation but without knowing how fast you boil, the size of the pot etc its hard to predict boil off without doing it.

Sounds to me like you have a good grasp on what is required so go for it. You may not hit your target SG but you will produce a better beer than just using extract.

Ok thanks. I probably didn't explain properly that I don't have a mush tun and will be doing it in a big pot.

Does this change anything as I won't be getting any "runnings" as such.

matr wrote:Ok thanks. I probably didn't explain properly that I don't have a mush tun and will be doing it in a big pot.

Does this change anything as I won't be getting any "runnings" as such.

You can still collect runnings.

You can strain the liquid from the grain with a wire strainer.

Add the sparge water back to the grain, stir and then strain again.

Add the liquid back to the pot and bring to the boil.

drsmurto wrote:You can still collect runnings.

You can strain the liquid from the grain with a wire strainer.

Add the sparge water back to the grain, stir and then strain again.

Add the liquid back to the pot and bring to the boil.

Of course I can...

Sounds good I'll give it a bash. I feel my toes are dangling over the edge of the dark side now...

Thanks for your help.

Dangling always results in falling in!

drsmurto wrote:Dangling always results in falling in!

Don't worry the Mrs has still got hold of my back pocket so I won't fall...

Sounds like she may be holding something else as well mate

matr wrote:Ok so I was thinking of doing a kind of partial mini BIAB. Not sure about the amount of water I need to add.

Here is the recipe;

1.50 kg Pale Liquid Extract (15.8 EBC) Extract 51.72 %
0.70 kg Pale Malt, Maris Otter (5.9 EBC) Grain 24.14 %
0.30 kg Carared (39.4 EBC) Grain 10.34 %
0.25 kg Cara-Pils/Dextrine (3.9 EBC) Grain 8.62 %
0.15 kg Chocolate Malt (689.5 EBC) Grain 5.17 %
20.00 gm Amarillo Gold [8.50 %] (30 min) Hops 13.5 IBU
20.00 gm Cascade [5.50 %] (15 min) Hops 5.6 IBU
15.00 gm Cascade [5.50 %] (0 min) (Aroma Hop-Steep) Hops -
1.00 items Whirlfloc Tablet (Boil 15.0 min) Misc
1 Pkgs P10 Sierra (Proculture) Yeast-Ale

20L batch

So I've been drinking this for a couple of weeks now. I don't think I got very good efficiency as it is quite weak and light in body. However It tastes fantastic..
Was a bit bitter fresh (probably due to my poor efficiency) but has come around now and is great with nice roasty flavour followed by a strong Cascade / Amarillo hit that lingers especially in burps..

All in all I am happy with the outcome. Just need to finish my full size BIAB keggle...

Matr, I made some great partials before going full volume BIAB and the main reason was to brew UK style real ales which can't really be done successfully using kits or extract - otherwise I would probably still be doing partials as I had fantastic results with bland kits such as Cerveza or Canadian pimped up with a 2kg mini mash, good yeast and some hops.

If you haven't got your keg and burner for the keggle yet and are looking at doing 'standard' 21 - 25 L brews then consider an electric urn. Turnkey solution right out of the box. I hear reports that the gas guys spend up to $6 gas per brew, and with the 150 brews I have done in the urns(s) so far just the savings on power come to over $800 which could have bought me three urns

BribieG wrote: I made some great partials before going full volume BIAB and the main reason was to brew UK style real ales which can't really be done successfully using kits or extract

Hi BG,

I'm going to be doing my first BIAB shortly and would like to start with an English bitter/pale ale "real ale" style.

Any straightforward recipes that you can suggest for a first-timer?

Cheers

Oliver

My 2 c on english bitter recipes (although Bribe being from the old country will have plenty of ideas).

Simple works best.

For most of my standard bitters i use 90% Maris Otter, 5% crystal malts, 5% torrified wheat.

The 5% crystal malts can be made up of a mix of varying colours.

Torrified wheat can be subbed for wheat malt if you cant find it.

I tend to aim for an OG of 1.045, mash at 66 for 90 mins. 90 min boil with hops at 60, 20 and 0. English hops such as EKG, Fuggles, Challenger, Target, Bramling Cross and not so english but common in UK beers - styrian goldings.

I aim for ~30 IBU total with more emphasis on the bittering addition than late additions (the opposite to APAs).

Here is a recent batch i made

3.70 kg Pale Malt, Maris Otter (Bairds) (5.9 EBC) Grain 90.24 %
0.20 kg Wheat, Torrified (Bairds) (3.9 EBC) Grain 4.88 %
0.10 kg Crystal, Dark (Bairds) (240.0 EBC) Grain 2.44 %
0.10 kg Crystal, Medium (Bairds) (170.0 EBC) Grain 2.44 %
22.00 gm Bramling Cross [8.60 %] (60 min) Hops 24.8 IBU
14.00 gm Challenger [6.10 %] (20 min) Hops 6.2 IBU
14.00 gm Challenger [6.10 %] (0 min) Hops -
0.50 items Whirlfloc Tablet (Boil 5.0 min) Misc
1 Pkgs West Yorkshire (Wyeast #1469) Yeast-Ale

OG 1.045
FG 1.012
ABV 4.3%
IBU 31

Oliver wrote:

BribieG wrote: I made some great partials before going full volume BIAB and the main reason was to brew UK style real ales which can't really be done successfully using kits or extract

Hi BG,

I'm going to be doing my first BIAB shortly and would like to start with an English bitter/pale ale "real ale" style.

Any straightforward recipes that you can suggest for a first-timer?

Cheers

Oliver

Hi Oliver, slipped under my radar:
As the Doc suggests, good pale malt such as Thomas Fawcett floor malted and some crystals, plus typical UK hops. I normally go for a higher OG as life is too short to drink lite beers plus my kidneys and bladder nowadays would prefer three or four pints, not six or seven
In the old days, Fuggles and Goldings were the main thing but since the 1950s a lot of new hops have been bred with more bittering and some interesting flavours. Challenger would have to be the pick of these new hops, and Styrian Goldings are also popular. Although from the former Yugoslavia they are descended from a fuggle and used extensively. As the UK is now in the EU, expect use of more continental goods such as Cara-malts and Euro Hops as well.
A favourite house beer:

5000 TF Golden Promise
300 Caramalt

66 degrees 90 minutes
300 white sugar in the boil (optional)
flaked maize or polenta, wheat malt or torrefied wheat (optional)

50g Challenger 60 mins
60g Styrian Goldings 10 mins

Wyeast 1469 West Yorkshire bitter.

I was talking to a pommy brewer the other day and he said his granddad said that wheat was a defacto component of UK ales in the old days because in areas of intensive farming, often the barley crop would have volunteer wheat in it as well to a few percent. Never realised that but makes sense - I expect they've eliminated all that nowadays...........maybe.

Thanks BG.

I reckon that once I get into the BIAB caper I'll be brewing a few in quick succession so I reckon yours and DrS's will be the first two.

What's the OG of the recipe above (I don't have recipe software ATM, but that's for another thread )

Cheers,

Oliver

Oliver wrote:Thanks BG.

I reckon that once I get into the BIAB caper I'll be brewing a few in quick succession so I reckon yours and DrS's will be the first two.

What's the OG of the recipe above (I don't have recipe software ATM, but that's for another thread )

Cheers,

Oliver

With only the input of 5.3 kg of grains, and assuming a 23 litre batch, with efficiency set at 70%, BeerSmith predicts an OG of 1.046.
Add the sugar and other bits, and it will rise somewhat.
Efficiency lower and higher will also have an impact, but at least now you have a ballpark figure.

Thanks Warra. Appreciate it. Might go sans the extra sugar and see how it comes up.

I'd be happy with an alcohol content of about 4.5% or so.

Cheers,

Oliver

Oliver wrote:(I don't have recipe software ATM, but that's for another thread )

Cheers,

Oliver

Brewmate is free and easy to use, no affiliation, just a happy non paying customer

Thanks for that Warra (just got in from work). That's why I often add extras to bump the alcohol up into the low 5 percents while still producing a beer that isn't too over the top in maltiness and "chewyness".