To rack or not to rack

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Finnagann
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To rack or not to rack

Post by Finnagann »

Check this thread out on homebrewtalk, its a transcription from a conversation with John Palmer and Jamil (forget his last name) about racking to secondary.

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f163/second ... gh-176837/

I'll copy and paste for those lazy brewers out there :D



Like a lot of brewers here on HBT, I've discovered that the transfer to a secondary fermenter really isn't necessary, unless I am doing something like adding fruit or dry hopping. Leave it in the primary 3-4 weeks and I'm good to go. Autolysis? Nope, not here. The beer is better than ever.

This was confirmed on a March episode of Brew Strong where John and Jamil talk about how secondary fermentation is an outdated homebrewing technique. John even says that the information in the 1st edition of How to Brew (the web version) is no longer relevant.

I couldn't find a transcript of the show so I recorded that portion of the conversation. May have missed a few Ah's and Um's, but the main content is there.

Hope this helps:

John: And unfortunately I'm an perpetuator of the myth at HowtoBrew.com. The 1st edition talks about the benefits of transferring the beer off the yeast.

Jamil: Well that was the popular way of doing things. But that was what, the 1st edition? Stop getting the thing off the internet. Buy yourself the 3rd addition copy and get the updated information.

John: As we've gotten more educated on how much good healthy yeast you need for optimum fermentation the advice that we used to give 20 years ago has changed. 10 years ago, 20 years ago, homebrewers were using with a single packet of dry yeast that was taped to the top of the can. There weren't as many liquid yeast cultures available.

Jamil: People didn't make starters either.

John: Right. So the whole health and vitality of yeast was different back then compared to know. Back then it made sense. You had weaker yeast that had finished fermentation that were more susceptible to autolysis and breaking down. Now that is not the case. The bar of homebrewing has risen to where we are able to make beer that has the same robustness as professional beer. We've gotten our techniques and understanding of what makes a good fermentation up to that level, so you don't need to transfer the beer off the yeast to avoid autolysis like we used to recommend.

Jamil: Unless you are going to do long term at warm temperatures, but even then we are talking over a month. I thought about this as well and I think one of the reasons autolysis....and the fact that people were using weak yeast in inappropriate amounts and the transfer would add some oxygen to it which would help attenuate a few more points. I think that was part of the deal why transferring was considered appropriate years ago.

John: But these days we don't recommend secondary transfer. Leave it in the primary, you know, a month. Today's fermentations are typically healthy enough that you are not going to get autolysis flavors or off-flavors from leaving the beer on the yeast for an extended period of time.

Jamil: And if you are using healthy yeast and the appropriate amount and the thing is... homebrew style fermentors..if you are using a carboy or plastic bucket which have that broad base when the yeast flocculate out they lay in a nice thin layer. When you're dealing with large, tall...one of the things you know people go "Well the commercial brewers they remove the yeast because it is gonna break down, die, and make the beer bad. We should be doing the same thing." That's where alot of this comes from. But the commerical brewers are working with 100 bbl fermenters that are very tall and put a lot of pressure on the yeast. The yeast are jammed into this little cone in the bottom and they are stacked very deep and there is a lot of heat buildup. The core of that yeast mass can be several degrees C higher than the rest of that yeast mass and it can actually cook the yeast and cause them to die faster and cause those problems with flavor and within a couple of days the viability of that yeast which the commercial brewers are going to reuse is going to drop 25%, 50% over a couple of days so they need to get that yeast out of there. You don't have that restriction as a homebrewer. You've got these broad fermenter bases that allow the yeast to be distributed evently. It's an advantage for cleaning up the beer. You have the advantage that the yeast don't break down as fast. You don't have as high a head pressure. There are a lot of advantages.
hirns
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Re: To rack or not to rack

Post by hirns »

Great post! Worth a sticky IMHO.
Chris
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Re: To rack or not to rack

Post by Chris »

I was once a strong proponant of racking- see Simple things that make homebrew better.

I now only do it in certain circumstances now- like fruit additions. Now I just ferment to
within a range of FG, then rack straight to a keg for cc/lagering. A big part of why I do
it this way is due to taking up filtering my beer. Filtering is the new kegging as far as I'm
concerned.

Racking does still give you better clarity though, so whilst it isn't really in my routine any
more, it may still be of use to others. I don't think that Palmer and Jamil have considered
racking from the point of view of new brewers who want a simple process to improve their
beer, not just avoid potential autolysis flavours. A lot of (if not most) new brewers will
still use the out of date yeast packet that comes on the top of the can and don't make starters.
No-one amongst the 'brewing heirachy' ever seems to consider them, as they seem unable to
fathom anyone not using liquid yeast etc.

It all comes down to using the techniques that work best for you, at your level of brewing.
A beer in the hand is worth two in George Bush...

"They say beer will make me dumb. It are go good with pizza"
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Anna
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Re: To rack or not to rack

Post by Anna »

This is a really informative post - definitely worth a sticky! Have to disagree with your point about "newbies" racking as an easy way to make a better beer though Chris. I've now done 52 brews and still shy away from racking as being too complicated. Always used kit yeasts (until now), never made a starter, and always had crystal clear beer! However, hadn't heard of "autolysis" until now - can you enlighten me on what sort of "off flavours" it can produce? :roll:

Anna
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drsmurto
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Re: To rack or not to rack

Post by drsmurto »

I rack.

Does it make my beer better than if I didn't rack? I doubt it.

What it enables me to do is transfer the beer to a cube/jerry and cold condition/lager it for an extended period with minimal yeast/trub.

All my beers get a minimum 2 week conditioning period, some up to 3 months.

I also reuse the yeastcake and prefer to take it prior to addition of gelatine/polyclar so I rack then add the finings.
Chris
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Re: To rack or not to rack

Post by Chris »

The flavours produced are often described as meaty, sulphury, broth like, vegemitey etc.

And, as an additonal note regarding clear beer, it is not just cosmetic. The beer is so
much crisper and clearer in taste when there is less yeast in it.
A beer in the hand is worth two in George Bush...

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Chris
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Re: To rack or not to rack

Post by Chris »

Hey doc.

Don't you wish you had s/s conical? Easiest way to recover yeast yet!

A dream for now, but one day... 8)
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Anna
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Re: To rack or not to rack

Post by Anna »

Never used finings either! Maybe you have to for AG brewing?
Chris
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Re: To rack or not to rack

Post by Chris »

Generally speaking, I find finings a waste of time- with the exception of Irish moss and polyclar, obviously.

But, as I pointed out, I do filter.
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Anna
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Re: To rack or not to rack

Post by Anna »

Thanks Chris - sounds disgusting! :shock:

(But you'd want your CPA yeasty, wouldn't you?) :P
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Anna
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Re: To rack or not to rack

Post by Anna »

Chris wrote:Generally speaking, I find finings a waste of time- with the exception of Irish moss and polyclar, obviously.

But, as I pointed out, I do filter.
Obviously? No - why? :roll:
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drsmurto
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Re: To rack or not to rack

Post by drsmurto »

Chris wrote:Hey doc.

Don't you wish you had s/s conical? Easiest way to recover yeast yet!

A dream for now, but one day... 8)
Hell yes!
Anna wrote:Never used finings either! Maybe you have to for AG brewing?
Nothing to do with AG/kits etc.

My beers are as bright as a commercial beer. The one i had of yours even after 5 days in a 1C fridge was still hazy.

This was due likely to a combination of yeast and chill haze.

Gelatine (sometimes sold in HBS as finings) drops out yeast.

Polyclar is for chill haze. This is due to proteins in your beer. Extended conditioning will drop these out but polyclar speeds up the process.

I also have a filter and it does make a slight improvement in the clarity of my beer.

Both yeast and chill haze impart a flavour to your beer. Chill haze also has an effect on long term stability. Unless you are drinking a witbier or a weizen then your beer should be clear. Coopers hazy beers are a marketing gimmick.

Home brewing still has a stigma attached to it. By pouring my friends and family diamond bright beers i am showing them that home brewed beer can be as good , if not, better than commercial beer.

Its only been in the last year or so that i have put in the extra effort to improve the appearance of my beer. Some people don't care, i do. Its not only for competitions where hazy beers get marked down, its also pride in something i made.

My 2 c.
DrSmurto

p.s. irish moss/whirlfloc is used by mash brewers during the boil to aid in the coagulation and precipitation of proteins at the end of the boil.
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Anna
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Re: To rack or not to rack

Post by Anna »

So much to learn! (Mine hazy? Really? And I've always been so smug about the clarity! That worries me - better put my glasses on next time I have a beer! :cry: )
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drsmurto
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Re: To rack or not to rack

Post by drsmurto »

Hold your beer up next to a glass of commercial beer.

Mine looks the same as the commercial beer, yours looks like Coopers.

As i said, it takes time and extra effort to get it clear and i only started caring about it the last 1-2 years. Prior to that my beer looked like yours. I used to justify it by saying real beer ( a la Coopers) is cloudy.

Real beer is clear.

This is my beer before it goes through a filter.

Image

Image

Image
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Anna
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Re: To rack or not to rack

Post by Anna »

I see what you mean! Beautiful! 8)

(Maybe when I pass the 2 year mark...... :wink: )
Chris
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Re: To rack or not to rack

Post by Chris »

It took me a while to go to filtering, but I'll never look back now. It is great! It really
brings the flavours out too. Better tasting beer, looks better, and more stable- what
more could you ask for?
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Tipsy
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Re: To rack or not to rack

Post by Tipsy »

drsmurto wrote:Real beer is clear.

The first 2 pots from my kegs must be fake beer :shock: :D
hirns
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Re: To rack or not to rack

Post by hirns »

Anna wrote:I see what you mean! Beautiful! 8)

(Maybe when I pass the 2 year mark...... :wink: )
Anna, you may wait a while before using a full filter setup, but you should be able to make a very clear kit just with gelatine. You arn't doing all grain so you in many ways have an easier job in creating a clear beer. Even if chill haze is not removed, you should still note a huge improvement and the process is dead simple.

Use normal edible gelatine from the supermarket. I use 1 teaspoon disolved in a cup of boiling water and then add it to the brew roughly a day before bottling and give the brew a gentle stir and refit the lid. If the fermenter is in a cooling tub, this when I lift it out so as not to disturb yeast just before bottling. The gelatine attaches to the yeast and ecourages it to drop out and then stick at the bottom of the fermenter. The process works better the cooler the liquid(like making jelly set) but I use it with success in normal QLD weather. I used to be scared of opening the fermenter and used to use a small funnel to poor the sollution through the airlock hole; it worked but not as effective as stiring it through.

Nowdays, I pour the cup into the keg after it has chilled and simply give it a shake and let settle for a few days. The first beer pulls the yeast from the bottom of the keg (why many use a cube so it settles there instead of in the keg) and after that it is pretty much clear after pulling a couple.

If clarity worries you I would encourage you to add this simple step.

Cheers

Hirns
Chris
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Re: To rack or not to rack

Post by Chris »

Yeast probably isn't the main culprit in the scenario above- doc seemed
to be indicating that he thought it was chill haze. Gelatine will do nothing
to help that- wrong charge.
A beer in the hand is worth two in George Bush...

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drsmurto
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Re: To rack or not to rack

Post by drsmurto »

Chris wrote:Yeast probably isn't the main culprit in the scenario above- doc seemed
to be indicating that he thought it was chill haze. Gelatine will do nothing
to help that- wrong charge.
I think in Anna's beer it was a combination of the 2. I should have let it warm up to see how much of the chill haze disappeared to confirm that i would be using both a few days apart and to beer that is as cold as possible.

Gelatine works fine in removing yeast at 20C although it will work better the colder the beer.

You cant remove chill haze at 20C as is wont appear until you drop the beer below 5-6C. So you need to chill the beer first then add the polyclar. Or alternatively, serve your beer warm (10+C).
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