Fridge metal isn't all that thick and I'd be worried about metal fatigue
1. I notice most people have the Tap on the Door of the fridge, Is there any reason why I could not put it in one the sides ?? Do Fridges run pipes on the sides?? The side would better suit me where the fridge is going to be located.
2. Do you put support plates both sides of the tap to increase the load surface area, Fridge metal isn't all that thick and I'd be worried about metal fatigue
3. Hose Length, I would think the Shorter the better, allowing enough play/give length, Mounting the Tap higher than the Kegs
4. Having 4 Kegs, (the first I would try force carbonating because I would be hanging out to try it) is it be better to Bulk prime ( priming Sugar) for carbinating the beer or use the gas to carbinate. (@ 19l /keg =ing approx 2 cartons I figure I will go through a Keg a week).
5. I'm Thinking about having a hose from the drip tray gong back into the fridge where the dregs can be collected in a container, anything wrong with this Idea??
6. I live in VIC what sort of costs will CO2 cost.
drsmurto wrote:
Have a read of this - Link
There are a lot of factors that influence the carbonation of your beer. Line length is just one of them.
DrSmurto
drsmurto wrote:5. I'm Thinking about having a hose from the drip tray gong back into the fridge where the dregs can be collected in a container, anything wrong with this Idea??
Why? Just empty and clean it regularly you lazy bastard. Trust me, the shit that grows in a drip tray when you get lazy is not pretty.
DrSmurto
drsmurto wrote:6. I live in VIC what sort of costs will CO2 cost.
Cant help you with mexican $$$ but here in SA it cost me $120/year to rent the bottle and 30 something to refill it.
Cheers
DrSmurto
Longwood-65 wrote:6. I live in VIC what sort of costs will CO2 cost.
Tipsy wrote:Longwood-65 wrote:6. I live in VIC what sort of costs will CO2 cost.
The keg on legs option is a good one if you can afford the money up front
http://www.grainandgrape.com.au/product ... ts_id=8288
Biernut wrote:It is costing me around five dollars a week for gas and bottle hire from BOC. A 10Kg nett bottle lasts me around four months. For a 10Kg bottle to last a year you would have to be one hell of a light drinker. I turn my bottle off when I am not using a keg and yes I check fairly regularly for leaks.
Longwood-65 wrote:Biernut wrote:It is costing me around five dollars a week for gas and bottle hire from BOC. A 10Kg nett bottle lasts me around four months. For a 10Kg bottle to last a year you would have to be one hell of a light drinker. I turn my bottle off when I am not using a keg and yes I check fairly regularly for leaks.
That surprises me, after reading this thread http://www.homebrewandbeer.com/forum/vi ... =17&t=7769
Well I guestimate that the Missus and I will go through about a keg a week. 19l is approx 48 stubbies.
The keg system wasn't in the Post Agency today so I'll have to wait til next Saturday. ( I don't get mail delivery and can only make to the agency on saturdays)
Was just thinking, When the keg is empty of beer it would be full of CO2 I wonder if there is a cost effective way to recover it,
or maybe a hose with a connect each end, connect to the fluid side on a freshly filled keg then connect to the gas side of the newly emptied keg, should get enough CO2 to at least purge the new keg of air, won't be enough to carbonate but it would be better way of storing it for it's time connected up. (If someone tries it disconnect the fluid side before disconnecting from the Gas side)
Regards
Ron
drsmurto wrote:Cloudy? Did you rack and cc it before putting it into the keg?
drsmurto wrote:If you brewed this a week or 2 ago no wonder its green. Jaysus! )
drsmurto wrote:If you decide to bulk prime your keg and ignore the advice you asked for and received then be prepared for cloudier beer than you have on tap now. It takes time for yeast to floc out whether its in a keg or a bottle (and thats assuming you are running your keg fridge at the typical Aussie beer temp of <4C, longer the higher the temp)
drsmurto wrote:Any slight movement of your keg will shake all that yeast up. Remember than the dip tube is a few mm from the bottom of your keg.... So if you bulk prime you will have a lot of yeast at the bottom......
I cc all my beers for a minimum of 2 weeks (at 0-1C) prior to going into the keg and i still have a layer of yeast at the bottom after i finish the keg.
drsmurto wrote:the simplest method is to hook up your beer at the pressure you plan to serve at and wait 1-2 weeks before drinking.
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