General homebrew discussion, tips and help on kit and malt extract brewing, and talk about equipment. Queries on sourcing supplies and equipment should go in The Store.
cleverpig wrote:I just remebered I had left the air lock in.
With only a small amount left, the pressure was probably not enough to suck in air, so it just stopped. Moving it higher probably added enough pressure to suck air though the air lock again. Luckly fermentation had caused a lot of the water in the lock to bubble out, so it was reletivly empty, none of it "seemed" to get sucked into the brew.
Next time i'll take out the airlock.
Just crack the seal on the fermenter when bottling i find this to be good and no nastys can really get in while bottling either
I havent primed with malt yet but was thinking of trying it, i used the bulk priming calculator and for a 22l brew came up with about 300gm ldme does this sound right as i thought it sounded a bit high Is there any taste difference or difference in maturation time doing it this way
Cheers chris ill give it a go, i think from hearing you use 1.5 cups then i think the calc is pretty acurate, cant wait to use malt to see the difference
Where you add an ammount of unfermented wort(now called gyle in this process) in the bulk priming process.
It's easy for a brewery who is making beer at all different processes to do this, but us homebrewers could just tuck away some wort(without yeast) in a sealed sterile container in the fridge till bottling day.
from the research I have done on it, I've found the below equation to use when working out how much wort to add.
in US formula
quarts of gyle(wort)=(12 X gallons of wort) / ([SG-1] X 1000)
so for a 5 gallon batch of brew with a SG of 1.040
=(12x5)/(.040X1000) = 60/40
so 1 and a half quarts of gyle is added.
Thoughts anyone, I'm keen to give this a go and was wondering what others have thought of it.
Where you add an ammount of unfermented wort(now called gyle in this process) in the bulk priming process.
It's easy for a brewery who is making beer at all different processes to do this, but us homebrewers could just tuck away some wort(without yeast) in a sealed sterile container in the fridge till bottling day.
from the research I have done on it, I've found the below equation to use when working out how much wort to add.
in US formula
quarts of gyle(wort)=(12 X gallons of wort) / ([SG-1] X 1000)
so for a 5 gallon batch of brew with a SG of 1.040
=(12x5)/(.040X1000) = 60/40
so 1 and a half quarts of gyle is added.
Thoughts anyone, I'm keen to give this a go and was wondering what others have thought of it.
I've heard of it.
It's one of those techniques that is a bit fiddly for a homebrewer. If you brew AG & want NO extract or sugar at all in a brew then go for it.
I know some AG brewer save the last bit of wort in their kettle thats full of hop & hot break debris. They chill &/or freeze it for use in yeast starters.
If you calculate the extra wort to save, you could filter/settle it & prime with it instead.
Okay, I managed to f--- up racking. I lost about 3 to 4 litres (don't ask) in the process. My question is, should I still bulk prime or just prime each bottle? I've got one of the Muntons Bulk Priming packs which are 140gs. Could I just put in 115gs instead? How much over priming needs to be done for a bottle to explode?
possessed_haemorrhage wrote:Okay, I managed to f--- up racking. I lost about 3 to 4 litres (don't ask) in the process. My question is, should I still bulk prime or just prime each bottle? I've got one of the Muntons Bulk Priming packs which are 140gs. Could I just put in 115gs instead? How much over priming needs to be done for a bottle to explode?
possessed_haemorrhage wrote:Cheers Lethal, but my pack is a 2 part malt 1 part dextrose mix (I think thats what my HBS guy said), so which one do I use? :S
I'll tell you how I got to 115gs in my last post:
140gs total in the pack
140 divided by 23 (litres) = 6.086
6.086 multiplied by 19 (litres) = 115.6
This sounds good to me, but I'd like to run it by someone who has more than one brew under their belt
140 doesnt sound like enough to me for 23 litres it should be up more like 180, Personally id go with the whole lot to 19 litres! What sort of brew is it?
From now on just get yourself either some dextrose or malt ( not in a priming pack) and measure it out yourself, its much more accurate
Thats just my opinion though mate, ive never used one of these but i know you need more malt than dex for priming, e.g: today i bottled a chimay blue and i used 200gms of ldme, if iit was dex it would have been only 111 gms, on average most ppl use about 180gms dex for HB, but like i say i have never used what you have and i would suggest again to just grab a kilo of either dex or malt and use the priming calculator and i think you will have much better results, also note that temp plays a big part in priming for a brew brewed at 15*C for arguments sake may need 160gm dex but the same brew brewed at 20 degrees will need about 180-190
Beerdrinker32 wrote:should i prime a stout with LDME?
You could yes, whether you should is up to you, it really doesnt matter what you prime with because it wont add much taste if any, id go with either dex, ldme or white sugar as all are easy to measure
