rwh wrote:What's all-thread?
Timmsy wrote:......... thay gave me black plastic fittings i spose it was for out door sprinklers. Im not sure at using this...........
SpillsMostOfIt wrote:rwh wrote:What's all-thread?
Imagine a thick brass or SS pipe/tube with thread all the way along its length. Screws happily into your ball valve or any of the other standard threaded bits you have.
Trough Lolly wrote:Good point stubbie - mind you, a bit of well directed violence does wonders - especially for hand tool challenged dolts like me!
Cheers,
TL
Running a nut over the thread once cut will rough the threads back into shape if you've distorted them.
Stubbie wrote:
Maybe, I repeat, maybe, that you'll get away with that approach if the all-thread is brass and the nut-come-threading die is made from a harder material, say hardened steel, AND the extent of thread distortion is minor. But it's still a bit of a butcher job. But trying the same with stainless is likely to be a different story. God's own material, aka stainless steel, has lots of you-beaut properties. But a nasty one is its tendency to bind. Rubbing two stainless surfaces together under load can and often will lead to 'cold welding'. As an aside, that's why it's good practice to use a thread lubricant for stainless nut/bolt fasteners used in high load applications. That is, if there's any intention of being able to undo the fastener without ruining the threads or shearing the bolt. Been there, done that. Attempting to reform deformed threads using stainless on stainless is a sure way to tear the shit out of both threads, no problemo.
Consider using some TLC. How about folding a piece of wet and dry over an old/blunt knife blade and chasing the thread along the groove?
Another reason to not use stainless!
SpillsMostOfIt wrote:...Another reason to not use stainless!
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 28 guests